Volvo G990 Grader

[Stefan]

Hello all,

Finally I got the time to start the already promised thread about my grader build. Having started the planning in 2005 this is already a long time project bound to take still quite some years to finish. So expect some frequent postings until I catch up with the present state of things and thereafter... hmm, you´ll probably need some patience :o *. Anyway, here some basic model data:

Scale . . . . .: 1:8

Length . . . .: 1222 mm (48") over front wheels
Width . . . . : 363 mm (14.3")
Height . . . . : 408 mm (16")

Moldboard
Width . . . . : 533 mm (21")
Height: . . . : 85 mm (3.4")

Tires
Diam. . . . . : 185 mm (7.3")
Width . . . . : 70 mm (2.75")

Weight : 40 to 50 kg (88 - 110 lbs) (estimated depending on equipment)
Material: Mainly stainless steel, some brass

Drive: Electric 200 W (planned).
All hydraulic, 10 circuits + 5 for implements, max pressure estimated 40 bars (580 psi).
Radio not yet decided, but will need to control some 30 functions.

Here some CAD drawings for a first overview:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUGxQZGYzOGtOalk
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRGwyWGo1LVBnRFk
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYVhGeHhwX3lKOHc

Stefan

*) If you read some German and can´t wait you could also visit this forum (http://www.rc-baustelle.de/thread.php?threadid=1164) for the latests additions ;).

Edit: Sorry to say, the picture links in posts #1 to #263 have been broken due to a takeover of the cloud service provider :mad:. I managed to save the pics to another, hopefully more reliable provider, but the work to repair the links turns out to be very tedious, and will take quite some time.

[Madda]

What's happening? All the grader threads are so professional, like real ones.
Are you going to make hydraulics yourself?

[Lil Giants]

How I'd like to have a grader model, but it such a complex piece of machinery to build accurately... I think I will have to settle with a 6-way pull type.

I be drooling at this one too. :cool:

[rc_farmer]

Wow, this grader thing is really picking up speed. Glad to see another grader coming onboard. Gonna follow this one two.

[9W Monighan]

Looks like this forum will need a sub topic for road graders soon :D
I haven't started designing the one I'll be building yet. But I'll be stepping way back in time on my build. The 1930's ;)

[D8R]

Looking promissing Stefan. Will be following this closely.
As " Madda" said, looks like the grader people are setting a new standard here. There´s a lot of functions to be included in a small space, guess you need to do a good home work before starting to be sure everything fits inside, maybee that´s why Cad is used.
Hope to see pics soon on this build.
Dan

[mpe]

Stefan... Nice work on the CAD! What software are you using?

I'm curious - Why did you decide to build in 1:8 scale and why Stainless?
This thing is going to be a beast! It will be very interesting to me seeing how you deal with some of the design issues associated with building a project like this. How soon before some of the parts start rolling in?

MPE

[Espeefan]

Graders are taking over the forum! That's fine. I enjoy watching these builds take shape. Especially since it seems like the only way to really build one well is to CNC machine everything. Great eye candy.

[JensR]

Hi Stefan!

Welcome here - I haven't seen the full CAD images before - cool :)

30 functions? Is that including light and sound?
I have "only" 16 in my grader.
Are you going to do a floating position of the main lift cylinders, too?

> MPE
> Why did you decide to build in 1:8 scale and why Stainless?

I can't claim to speak for Stefan, but 1:8 is fairly common in Germany and often considered to be the "premier league". (Larger than that, the scales start to become inconsistent.)

Stainless - why not? You get the necessary weight, no worries about rust and when the main chunk of your model is laser-cut, the price differential and machining woes are less of an issue.

Cheers
Jens

[doodlebug]

Hey Tim, I have the flier on that big grader, Champion 100t, the 70T is basically the same machine. 24' moldboard.
Cheer's, Neil.

[Stefan]

Hi all. Thanks a lot to everyone for the friendly comments.

I also find it very interesting that there are so many grader builds at the moment. When I started, I couldn´t find any reference whatsoever to RC graders on the web, and now there are plenty of them. The first one I noticed was a 1:8 O&K F 206 which has been running on the German fairs for the last 5 years. There was even an incredibly detailed, fully functioning O&K F 206 in 1:24 :eek: featured in a magazin last year.

@ mpe + JensR
Why stainless?: Well, I could hardly have said it better than Jens did.

Why 1:8?: I want to be able to build working details to scale and in the Volvo graders you have in particular this steam engine-like circle turn mechanism with a control valve which even in 1:8 will probably be on the limit of what´s feasible - it has to fit in a dia. 8 mm cylindrical housing just 15 mm high. Another reason is that I dream of doing some semi-serious playing like levelling the gravel in the yard and clearing the snow (it doesn´t snow that much here).

I use the TurboCAD Pro v.11 software. Quite happy with that, except for the rendering functions. You can tweak on almost every aspect of that program, and that´s probably why I haven´t found out yet how to make really good renderings. The default light doesn´t seem that useful to me. Maybe that has been improved now, they being already at v.18.

The +30 functions include a couple of individually controlled lights, sound and additional implements like a side snow wing. I just consulted my old list of functions and saw that 2 float valves are included, but I think they where intended for the snow wing, but, of course, I would like that for the main lift as well. By the way, yesterday I met one of the guys involved in the design and testing of the Veroma valves, and he claimed you can get them with an integrated float position intended for tractors with a plow. I´m not sure I understood him correctly, because, as far as I understand it, if float is integrated as one position of the valve it has to be either near the closed position or at one (or both) end(s) and I didn´t ask which is the case. In any case you could have some unwanted behaviour when operating the valve, so I´m not sure this valve would be useful in the grader. Moreover, I couldn´t find any reference to such a valve in the Veroma shop.

@ Madda
I´ll build the cylinders and said circle turn control valve myself. Soon (in my standards :p) to start that.

This is the original circle turn control valve. Behind the hose coupling is the 100 mm ruler. (As Jens once was the first to notice, I used magnetic strips for reference. Very convinient. But I really miss that I didn´t include sub-divisions on the rulers :().

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYkhiT1o4YzRINzg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLUNra3VPU3dVSXc

These are pictures of the lasered parts

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcV8xdWVFQnZMQ0E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfM0xJdlVoSzZLR1E

Stefan

[Madda]

Really sweet! Definitely going to be a another top build!

30 functions, what radio are you going to use?

[D8R]

Oh, that´s a nice package for christmas. Can see you spent a lot of hours behind computer, was everything designed before you started cutting anything?

[JensR]

Hi Stefan!

The float position is rather nice to have, I found.
I solved this mechanically, which won't help you - but the experience of the float position has convinced me that it is worth some headaches to get right.

Have you thought about adding an extra valve for each cylinder's float?
Similar to this:
Blade lift float circuit for motor graders 4034815
http://www.google.com/patents?id=Aks4AAAAEBAJ&pg=PA3&dq=grader+float+valve&hl=en&sa=X&ei=tLsJT7mWAoHR8QPhl-i7AQ&ved=0CDQQ6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q=grader%20float%20valve&f=false

On Caterpillar's new M-series, the float is activated by the operator pressing the joysticks forward over an indent - not sure what Volvo does and also, with electrohydraulics, the joystick does not tell us anything about what happens on the valve side of things.

I see that you have laser-cut the gears for the circle - can you comment on how good the quality of the surface is - do you think it is good enough?

Cheers
Jens

[Stefan]

@ Madda: Thanks! The most suitable radio I know of is the Brixlcontrol.

@ D8R: Having put in the order in November (some years ago), I also considered it a Christmas package, but I had to wait until late February, before I got the parts :mad:. The frame, front axle, drawbar, circle and moldboard designs, i.e. almost everything involving plates except the covers, were practically complete before I started cutting.

@ Jens: An extra valve for each cylinder's float was the first thing I had in mind, that's the reason I considered it a separate function. The "SVAB" joystick (http://www.svab.se/en/solutions/construction-machines) solution for Volvo has separate buttons for float.

Considering the slow speed, infrequent use and the fact that the gears for the circle are about module 4 it seems to me that the laser cut surface is smooth enough. When hand-cranking the 6-teeth wheel the 56-teeth one turns OK (but not perfect) without to much mesh play. I hope some running in will further improve it.

Stefan

[rc_farmer]

What-a-Christmas present!!!:eek: I told santa that other package did have my name on it:D

[kcjeepn]

Can santa deliver this to my house!!

[Gregg]

NO STOP FOWL. LASERED PARTS? Come on man thats cheatin. LOL .OMG that stuff looks amazing. Wish I had that machine.

[Stefan]

Hi!
Here some more pictures...

Testing the fit of the (at the time) newly cut parts:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVF9pS2Y5ZGlUSXc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHBlcnk5SzlSVjg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQ014ZDRpa1drbG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZUJSOVNKcGhUVGc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdlNKSkhlbkQzcW8

Front frame ...
...bending, plate thickness is 5 mm:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfV29mZUg5cWFMUkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOF9sY05STjJycUk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMUp3ZHdfQXU0Y2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNzBNaEFzZE9qdUE

...removing the overstanding edge portions:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTFFSQ0Q2UGtfZUE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfd3ZtLWJYb2c2RFk

Stefan

[JensR]

Bending those thick plates so precisely is no small feat, especially considering that the notches and fingers still line up perfectly! Wow!

[D8R]

Looking good Stefan. Can almost see the smile on your face when putting the parts together. Will parts be TIG ' ed together?
I learned from my model that if MIG 'ed it was easier to have the fingers a little shorter, more room for weld in hole.

Dan

[Stefan]

Thanks! I'm glad :) you realised that, Jens. However, this time it was necessary to file a little bit on the fingers after the bending before everything would fit :p.

Dan, I usually spot weld using the TIG and afterwards the rest is hard soldered or glued (where strength is of less concern). I haven't actually learned TIG'ing :( and prefer to just fuse together touching parts without adding any additional material and therefore it's actually good to have the fingers a little longer to have some spare material for TIG filling the gaps where the fit between the finger and the notch is not prefect.

Stefan

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Top notch work! A lot of the 1:1 equipment I work on have parts built by the same tab / notch system -- makes welding everything together fast and accurate.

[Stefan]

Thanks! That´s really interesting. I didn´t know it is actually used in real life 1:1.

[Stefan]

I have now started assembling the "quadrants", i.e. the immediate supports for the grader blade. This is the original right side quadrant:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSDZxeWZ5d05GTGs

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRmRCRjY2VURNZkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVEZ6bjdSdW1pMEU

Here the left side one:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcDBjQlRUT1NDMXM

And here my 1:8 attempt:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHBpTnhpbVdNeWM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeXhCYmVKeGNqQk0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR2NyTVdSTHV1MVE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfc2FCemMtUXE1MG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOGVTR19LVGstRkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUjdvdzNkSWt4TWs

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfencwTmM5NS1IN28

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQkJYNG9OTzMxYlk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMjhZV0xTUmVyS3c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVTZxc0RQbEdSQlE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcjllVjlSRk1GczA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSVZGcXBQNHRHRjg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcjU2UXY4OU5uSWM

Stefan

[Hemi1966]

Stefan, I´m speechless :eek::):)

[SmallHaul]

Amazing work!

[Lil Giants]

Alot of intricate parts... your head must be spinning at times!!! :eek:

[dirtpusher9]

Nice work. This thing will be indestructible.

[Stefan]

Thanks guys!
@ Lil Giants
You are right, it´s mostly spinning :D Despite a 50 page document with notes for all parts and some excel pages.

Here a few close-ups of parts for the articulation:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMjRqQXB6eUZWU3M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfckJldTBMOW9zVmM
The two center bolts (M3) and their nuts will be replaced by ones having a scale head.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdUNpSlp0QjhlLXc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT0kxNEJvR3B4TUE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSDNld09HYi03Q1E

Edit: The rear eyes for the articulation cylinders are combined with the rear axle supports.

Stefan

[Stefan]

I made some additional brackets and fixed them to the quadrants. As you´ll notice, the outermost parts of the bearing holders have now been attached. Today I´ll hard solder the joints.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbkx3MnAyem5pUzA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRjZ5VWdqX1BIZGc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSm1YdnRjblBEeEk

At a late stage I noticed that there is a recess in the quadrant for the cross bar, so I added that to the model (adding by removing :D:D).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbWxzbHIwNHRMUDA

Stefan

[D8R]

Soldering the joints looks realy good, did you have a owen to heat the parts (I don´t see any darkening in material from heat)?
And you used TIG to position the parts before soldering them together?

Dan

[Stefan]

Hi Dan, I already polished those parts rather thoroughly. Next pictures show the same parts after final soldering and acid cleaning in 25% vinegar with salt :eek: for some hours but not yet rubbed (which I´m not going to do this time, as they will later be sandblasted). They are a bit darker but right out of the torch they looked pretty ugly :o. I use an oxygen/propane torch. And yes, they were positioned with the TIG, some 70 amperes for 0,5 to 1 seconds.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZzVNSVVRdTIzcW8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfakU5dkV4TWVZU2c

Stefan

[Stefan]

Hi, below some pictures from the build of the front frame.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTE5wY09Gd05Hd00

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNmoyNGt6ZmRwUm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZ25iS0o1YzhZczg


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMUtxQUtmMVFFdWs

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZzlGSHpRN0pTNHc


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMDdqLS1EVUFvbGM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfX3lZZkpnYWtuQ2M


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWkUzd3BfSlNQeGc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfX0NSR0F1WkhzM2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRmpZenRQNjlsQ28


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZTkyblctZzBGRDA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeUgxWXV4SV96ZFE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbVlVTlpIRjNvUk0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWlRfcWFSemF0TnM


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfalFUdGlaQzlkN3M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfODdTYk80WWhROTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNVZhTG9jcVhnZDA


https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSlV0U19PNWEzeHM

Stefan

[Brian in PA]

WOW!!!:eek::eek::eek::eek: This is amazing! Great work. your moving along good too.

[Espeefan]

Very interesting! I get so used to seeing guys machine all these great models that I forget all about the possibility of laser cutting parts, and welding them together. Seems once you have your parts, the build would go a bit quicker then having to machine everything. You're making excellent progress! Keep it up.

[JensR]

Agreed, although we should not forget that the skill to design something like that in CAD in a cost-effective and functional way is also considerable.
Ideally, you'd still need have some machined/turned parts, like Stefan's axle carriers.

For smaller scales/models, I think you might find that glueing degreased metal offers more than enough strength, especially if you take it into account during design.

[9W Monighan]

Very nice hard soldering joints. Looking like a 1:1 machine with all those weldments. Modern machines such as this are built from welding plates together. Much cheaper than yesterdays iron casting for everything. I'm stuck in yesterday with my antique machines; Riveting,casting,bolting, and sometimes welding.

[Vanisle]

That's a great idea for building, using the tabs. It is inspiring to see what can be done. Any idea how long it might take you get this completed? Do you think the building process is going quicker with the tab design? Sure seems like a solid design.

[Stefan]

Thanks for the comments guys!

@ Espeefan & JensR: Yes, as 9W Monighan said, the real one is mostly plates, and since there is in any case quite enough work to be done, I decided to have most of the plates cut in a laser cutting shop. But some parts, like the hose bundling plate, I did myself ;) What to do yourself is of course a trade-off question between time, money, difficulty and fun, but in the case of the plates, everything speaks for having them done. I´ll give you an example, for the moldboard slide guide I´ll need four stainless strips (for the two models I´m building) 487 mm x 9 mm x 1,5 mm (about 19” x 11/32” x 1/16”). Not a big deal, but also not much fun and only four bucks apiece from the cutting shop...

Even by the size of my model there are several small-strain-to-area-ratio parts for which gluing will be quite sufficient.

@ Vanisle: Someone in this thread said that the tab concept is used on some of the real machines, too. And yes, I reckon it´s much faster for a given accuracy (at least the one I want), in particular when you take advantage of the inherent accuracy of laser cutting. Just think of it - once the parts are made you can put them correctly together almost blindfolded.

Regarding the time to completion I´m sorry: What you see started almost five years ago and is surely bound to take another five, if not more :(:(:( (but positively seen, I´ve saved you five long years :D:D:D)

And here´s the hose bundling plate (never shown to anyone, anywhere before :D). It´s used at the waist of the machine.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOU1UQkZVcmd1Q0E

[JensR]

Stefan, not to be a party spoiler, but are these plates a good idea?

How do you prevent hose chafing and so?
I guess you can round the edges, but - not having the pdf of the original at hand - I remember similar plates in other machines having quite generous padding/guidance/radii to prevent cutting/chafing the hoses and wires.

[doodlebug]

Hey Jens, Are you thinking of grommet's around the hose's?
Cheer's, Neil.

[JensR]

Or sheathing around the hoses - not sure if any of that is realistic in the model.
It's problematic enough on the big machines.

I once saw an Australian(?) safety pdf where they talked about best practise in laying and securing hoses. But I cannot find it :(

[Stefan]

Jens, that´s not a spoiler, I´ve thought of that, too, but the original has a plate like that, so I made it (them). In reality each hole carries a fitting, to which a hose is attached from both sides. Obviously the holes are too small for model fittings (at least the ones you can buy), and many of them are even too small for the hoses I intend to use. So, depending on how many hoses will actually pass the waist (depends on whether I put valves also in the front frame) maybe I will use the plates, maybe not (edit: What I mean is: for a smaller number of hoses I can use the larger holes and include some kind of hose protection).

[Azorean]

Amazing, really nice work...

[Lil Giants]

I have models with rubber gromets & without going through metal holes, but the hoses fit snug! Never a problem yet with rupture.

Apart from UV light, vibration greatest factor to premature failure no matter how properly secured.. not something to worry about on a model I wouldn't think. :confused:

5yrs eh? and 5 more?.. don't let the media find that out or you'll be the new poster boy for "too much time on hands". :p :D

[Stefan]

Hm, someone must be drawing the wrong conclusions here, and I don´t know if it´s you, me or those potential media :confused:
Now, if you mean "too much spare time" I must respectfully disagree, cause sometimes weeks and even months have passed without me having had any time for the build :(:(. If you mean something else, you may still be right of course (pls enlighten me) :D:D:D

[Lil Giants]

I'm sorry Stefan :( I was teasing you and making fun of the media & ppl in general who don't understand what it means to have the challenging & exciting hobby that we all here enjoy so much... bad taste, my appologies, I didn't mean any offence to the extraordinary skilled work you are doing. :)

[doodlebug]

The people that make fun of this hobby have no skills or talent!
My $.02 worth
Grader is getting better all the time!
Cheer's, Neil.

[9W Monighan]

Sometimes there is different meanings to the slang we use.
For example; I have a Ukrainian guy who has worked for me about 12yrs and one time I was going to the lumber yard close to his quitting time and I said; "See Ya Later" and I left.
About an hour goes by and I get a call from my dad wondering when I'll be back. I said I was still loading the trailer and he said well Vladimir is waiting for you because I told him I'd "see ya later" what I should have told him was: "I'll see you tomorrow":D

Oh yea, This is the reason I inquired on another topic about requesting more Emoticons and Smiles.

[Stefan]

Hi Joe! Having just read your comments on your neighbours' reaction to your own long term project as well as what other people say, I now quite understand what you meant. And in any case, no offence taken! :)

[Stefan]

This time I have some pictures from the building of the rear frame.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQVBjTUpENFhXMnc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVy14LUM5UXZpSkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdUpnRklNeWpjMHc

My first hard soldering job in over thirty years. A bit overheated :o
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfV0hfa19PaTM1WFU

But o.k. looks better after cleaning.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWmNvbEhJazNqdUk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfS29wU1BxY1FkWGc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfaEwyejZCZ0RMNWc

In the original machine these bars are the ultimate attachment points for the rear frame installations including the engine, the cooling fan with its casing and the engine cowl. In all essential only the tank (between the frame bars at the rear end) and, of course, the tandem axle have separate attaching means.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNHFtbkVYX2JRVDA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOXE2UUR6Z3pKNjQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLWRXTGpzeUprNEE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfV3oyY1cyYTJVZkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRHljb0NJS1FINGM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSk1PWUlGX2ZZX2c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQXRESEpNTWxGR3M

Weight as shown 3.8 kg (8.4 lbs). B.t.w. the weight of front frame, as shown in an earlier installment, is 6.2 kg (14 lbs).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSC00WGhzT0ZoSVE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeVpWUVgxc2RycmM

Stefan

[9W Monighan]

Looking like some of these parts are right out of the factory on a 1:1 machine. The hard solder joints came out nicely too.

[Espeefan]

Great work. The solder joints look like miniature welds, off a 1:1 machine. I don't know that I could do that clean of work, but you're making some great progress. Watching these big machines come together, in miniature, is a real treat.

[Stefan]

Thanks for the warming words. Long time, no show, but here I´m back with a sequence of pictures from the build of the tandem boxes:

First how they should look when finished... apart from the colors :D
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMDBTV2J5MG5WNms
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR2t5c0czYmxHYXM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLVUtN2dSQVIxNnc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcTRNdGhrY3FQRFE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfN2E4c3cwX0R0LXM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfb2dldmtYMFhycm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTks3eDNzUjFocWc

This is the dia. 75 mm (3 inches) raw material for the brake housings (without function).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeXRnQ1YweEZNVXM

Two thirds of the material removed. The swarfs filled up one large packing case.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR2M1STNsVm5helk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNnRkd1RHdFhuZVk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOGR4dTlWXzdJeWs

And here you see the rear axles and wheel hubs.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOGl2bmZhbzlNbXM

Stefan

[D8R]

A lot of nice parts! Looking like you are building 2 graders, or is it only spare boxes?
Are the drive axles made in one piece or axle pressed/soldered?
What type of material do you use, the surface looks realy good.
Dan

[Stefan]

Hej Dan!
Yes, my intention was to build two of them, which I've also managed for most of the parts up till now. The calculation was that all the time for planning is better invested that way. The drive axles are a two piece pressed, or rather glued, construction. The axle proper is diameter 12 mm. The material used is stainless 1.4305 (which I think is called 303 in the states). I use this where no welding is needed, for the simple reason that it doesn't weld but is relatively easy to cut (achieving an acceptable surface). For parts to be welded I use 1.4301 (304).
Stefan

[kerst]

WOW! Great machining! Impressive!

Kerst

[Stefan]

Thanks Kerst! I made some additions for the moldboard installation.

These are the bearing bronze blocks. The actual guide slots will be milled in one setup after finishing the moldboard with its guide rails.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfME1GR05nb25LTzg

This bar connects the quadrants and also protects the moldboard slide cylinder from dirt (final screws will be shorter, of course).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUlBDOUJ5ZTJxRzg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfY2hHR0dJVTBFWXM

Stefan

[Stefan]

Finally I was able to prepare some new pics. Have been rather busy with the garden, as usual in the springtime, so didn´t do much on the model in the meantime, and the pics show what has been done before. Sorry for the long delay :o

Anyway, this is the story of the (still unfinished) front axle:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfazZ3dGtIX1NyV0U
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMHBwU2RpNWVzdGM

The knuckle and the spindle data were sent to a 3D print shop for producing master models for lost wax casting by another shop. This way it was possible to reproduce even the part numbers on the castings. Here are the master models having been returned after casting. You may note a pin having been inserted in the spindles to avoid air being trapped. The aluminum plugs in the knuckles were added when it turned out that the (one man) casting shop couldn´t handle holes of the particular depth to radius ratio.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVkNpOXQxa2tsQ0U

Unfortunately, the casting guy had slightly misjudged the castability (or his skill). Apparently, my parts were thicker than anything he had handled before, and came out with a lot of shrinkage cavities. In all, he cast each part six times (I had ordered two), but still was not happy, so he gave me the best pieces for the price of the metal. Here the knuckles:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVlFUYkd6NlpEcUU

And here one spindle already in the mill:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfak14U3dFaXVpZDA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfY3o4eEFXMmlNR1U

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVy1sSW16TkpETE0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfejNRSGRFOFpHVTQ

The next step was a bit tricky. The original ball joints for the tie rod and the steering cylinders have a conical insert end and there is of course no drill bit available in the needed size and conicity. Reasonably I should have given up at this point and made a simple threaded hole, but this time I was so determined to stay to scale, that I decided to make my own set of conical drill bits. Below you see the spindle arm for the tie rod connection being drilled.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfb2J4a19kNUhXb0E

Whereas this was relatively straightforward, said spindle arm unfortunately obstructs access from above to the steering cylinder attachment point. Consequently, I felt compelled to take yet another step towards insaneness and make this hole by means of reverse drilling. This requires threaded drill bits and an arbor. I suppose the next pics explains this better than more words:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUnZ2NjlMWk9KUTQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLWphZFZiRUtpeW8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNWVIbUljYng4OTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRzdYR0EybjV6Q3M

Next, I turned to the clamp on the tie rod ends. In order to test the design I hand made a single sample from 0.5 mm (20 mils) stainless steel sheet which was glued to a larger bar for ease of handling. It turned out to be a bit on the weak side, so I´ll probably have to increase to 0.8 mm, but that´s still in the future.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT2VGbEZnZEFuY2c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSGV5N09RS2o1eHM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMlgwZ2FOck1vdms

During box assembly I apparently forgot to take pictures :(. This is the only one I could find:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfV0d5bGhaWGp2LWM

Front hub parts:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfckdSU2hrRnNYT2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYnNvTF8yRmNrN1k

The remaining pics show pretty much the current state. Tie rod ball joint seats as well as cylinders for steering and wheel lean still have to be made.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSDBXaWtYUkNjS3M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbE83RTdGRFZmUDQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfX0pPUWg1Ti14cnM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVXY1WHdNcVJlYzQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMVZ5R0ZKcVpqbTA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR0tpSFdSd2xMd1k

Stefan

[dabears]

WOW Absolutly incredible work!!

[Hemi1966]

Stefan, I'm speechless :eek::eek:

[RCP57]

If I wrote the words that first come into my head when I see this I would be banned from the forum! This is absolutely increadible! Thanks for posting a description with each picture too!

Reg

[doodlebug]

Wow, the creativity is outstanding, Great job on the home made tooling.

Cheer's, Neil.

[ihbuilder]

absolutely brilliant :eek: you are a machinest , right ? sure looks like it :rolleyes: great work Stefan

[aussietruckerguy]

thats another amazing model, I can't wait to learn the skills to make a model as good as the ones on this board!!

[gipicarto]

One of the best never seen !!!!!

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

[kerst]

Absolutely amazing!

Kerst

[egronvold]

This will be awesome when finished. Correct tools are half the job ;)

[Stefan]

Thanks for all your motivating comments guys!

@ihbuilder: I´d certainly love to be a machinist but unfortunately I only do office work for a living.

@egronvold: Agreed. And for just one model (or two as in my case) the making of the tools and jigs is often much more than half the job...


I just shot two more pics, since I realized you might also be interested in the "internals" of the spindle with king pins:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfb3ZiMlBiSjVHN2c
The screw is an M2x16 mm. The king pins have diameter 7 mm.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfODVIUHBRR2ExNVE

Stefan

[D8R]

Stefan, the model just getting better and better, where will it stop with detailing, casting part number that's serious modeling! The way using 3D printer is interesting, did you have to compensate for shrinking when casting the pieces? I hope you bring the model with you this summer!
See you,
Dan

[RCKiwi]

Very nice work indeed:cool:, very nice! can't imagine what you'll be building in a few years!

Glenn

[doodlebug]

Stefan, the model just getting better and better, where will it stop with detailing, casting part number that's serious modeling! The way using 3D printer is interesting, did you have to compensate for shrinking when casting the pieces? I hope you bring the model with you this summer!
See you,
Dan

Hey Dan, see if this link help's? http://www.nonesuchtools.com/pmkr/shrink.html Here's an actual ruler, in metric, http://www.freemansupply.com/FreemanMetricShrin.htm
English measure, http://www.freemansupply.com/StarrettSteelShrin.htm If you have more foundry question's? I may be able to help with answer's.

Cheer's, Neil

[Stefan]

Dan, yes, the (.STL) files sent to the 3D printer had scaled up measurements by, if I remember correctly, 2.5 %. Still, the parts turned out a bit on the small side.

Glenn, in a few years I'll probably still be building on this model :o:(

Neil, thanks for the links, they'll help me, too. Would you be able to say whether the described shrinkage cavities problem is normal by this size/shape of parts using lost wax casting? Material was brass CuZn34Al2. I've been considering going to another foundry for some other, still bigger parts.

Stefan

[doodlebug]

Hey Stefan, look at this link, lot's of variable's to drive us insane http://www.scribd.com/doc/51971976/16/SHRINKAGE-CAVITIES-HOT-TEARS
Can you post picture's of the defect's? The wax isn't your problem. How the part is oriented, how it's gated-the hole for pouring and the venting hole. Multiple gate's or hole's with smaller runner's will help with the tempurature differential's of the mass cooling. A bad example would be trying to cast a hotdog with butterfly wing's, the mass of the hotdog will cause the thin wing's to fail, while cooling from casting. Everything need's to cool at the same rate. I would try the other foundry, and explain to them what happened last time. Sometime's it's better to leave a cavity out and machine it in after casting, to keep the cross section of the part more consistent. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casting_defect
Now the disclaimer, my experience was with aluminum and not near the quality of your stuff. Still learning! I tried brass once, that stuff is realy hot! when pouring it.
Not enough help today, hope you gained a few idea's!
The stuff that I cast, looked like a porcupine when it came out of the sand, lot's of small vent hole's, to let the gases out of the mold. I'll have to find the offending part for picture's.
http://www.iron-foundry.com/casting-defects-pictures.html

Cheer's, Neil.

[9W Monighan]

WOW, I am really enjoying watching your progress. The clamps on the tie rods are a brilliant touch to the degree of detail you are after. Part numbers cast in another thumbs up! I would like to learn how to do 3D drafting but just can't take the time to do so yet. I have some future parts that may take casting and I want to try the 3D printer idea too. There is a guy in my building who has a 3D printer who I can probably get to run a part for me once I get a cad file.

Oh by the way, Take as long as you want. I have. Someday it will be done. To me, building is more fun than operating some times.

[doodlebug]

WOW, I am really enjoying watching your progress. The clamps on the tie rods are a brilliant touch to the degree of detail you are after. Part numbers cast in another thumbs up! I would like to learn how to do 3D drafting but just can't take the time to do so yet. I have some future parts that may take casting and I want to try the 3D printer idea too. There is a guy in my building who has a 3D printer who I can probably get to run a part for me once I get a cad file.

Oh by the way, Take as long as you want. I have. Someday it will be done. To me, building is more fun than operating some times.

Hey Steve, have you considered DraftSight? it's free software. http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/overview/ I'm still learning it.

Cheer's, Neil.

[Stefan]

Thanks Neil, some very interesting links again. After having googled a bit further on the subject it doesn´t seem that impossible to set up a small foundry in the backyard. Would certainly make a lot of fun, I think. Rather busy at the moment, but will post pictures of the defects a.s.a.p.

Thanks to you too, Steve, for the supporting words. I haven´t made any comments in your thread (yet), but I really admire the detailing on your walking dragline, so I take words coming from you as a big compliment. :):)

Stefan

[doodlebug]

There's a British guy on YouTube, all video and no chatter,
Make's casting fun! I'll find the link and get it posted.
Cheer's, Neil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XJNeQ_U-RQ&feature=channel&list=UL
This guy is all action:D:D:D Lot's of helpful video's!

[Stefan]

Hi, here are some pics of the worst "spare parts" :D I got from the foundry:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfczUxdHk4d1F0R2s

In the following three pics the surface was, evidently, intended plane. Didn´t turn out so, though :(

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfay1HUG9BcnRFZVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbEExWWZaejVxODg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLUl3UzJOXzl5LU0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUWhpMG5tQm9ETzg

In this piece there is a 2 mm (78 mil.) by 6 mm cavity, 3 mm deep, in a generally porous portion.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRGRVTWUzVFhGOVk

Stefan

[doodlebug]

I see problem's with the quality of there sand, I see gas problem's, and I don't think they understand how to vent the mold properly! They need to pay attention to what temperature they pour at.
Yes, I understand your frustration!

Cheer's, Neil.

[Stefan]

I´ve found another foundry to entrust with the next, much beefier part(s). Hope they´ll do better.

In the meantime I´ve started making cylinders. They come in two rather small sizes, namely 10 and 13 mm inside dia., respectively.

This is my CAD drawing of the the circle turn cylinder. The piston rod is a mere 4 mm in diameter, even in 1/8. The cylinder piston is the 10 mm one. The stroke is 39 mm.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMlNyVHRoeDk3Z2s

This is, obviously :D, the real one:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMzBPS2VBWFhaZGM

The tubes here are just pre-cut.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfaTFQdExtZ0t5b0k

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYlFKa25rc05SM0E

The cylinder heads are at a 14.4 and 17.4 mm outside diameter, respectively.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHlGbHB2TFJKcm8

Stefan

[Madda]

What is that green part next to the O-ring in your Cad drawing?

Great build, always gives me so much ideas and inspiraion! Keep posting!

[Stefan]

Thanks Madda! The green part is supposed to symbolize a wiper and support for the O-ring.

Stefan

[JAMMER]

That is some very nice machining on those caps, Ed

[Madda]

Wiper, okay, what is the material you use to make this?

[tc1cat]

That is some outstanding machining!! What are you using to be able to thread that close to the bottom of the caps??

[Stefan]

Thanks! Well, I too thought that would be a problem, but luckily I found out there are tools like this:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQmVUWG15cjhnWjg

[Stefan]

Wiper, okay, what is the material you use to make this?

For the wiper I expect some experimentation to be necessary (since plastic kind of yields to the cutting tool). I´ll start with PTFE and hope that I can somehow produce a working wiping lip.

[Trackerman]

Stefan,
when you make up the wipers for the cylinders can you provide photos and description of how you make them as well as what material you use apart from the PTFE please. Learning a lot from builds like yours and appreciate any detailed information that helps to make the parts in the home workshop.

Cheers

Paul

[Stefan]

Paul,
Sure! When I know what works I´ll show you.

Stefan

[ihbuilder]

OK , now where did you find that id threading bar ? been looking forever :eek: OTOH , the grader is coming along nicely :eek:

[dabears]

Your cylinders are off to a great start!! You have some major talent with those machines

[Stefan]

@Steve: The threading bar is a SIR S16x07 M08 from AKKO (www.akko-werkzeuge.de). Needs a minimum 11 mm id hole. They also sell on eBay (Germany). The insert is a 08 IR 0,5 ISO BMA from www.bachgmbh.de.

Another german supplier (http://www.cd-tools.de/product_info.php?cPath=28_451&products_id=2228) (they don't seem to have any englich page, am sorry) sell threading bars for holes down to 6.2 mm (1/4").

Stefan

[Trackerman]

Stefan,
thankyou for the reply I look forward to following the rest of your build.

Cheers

Paul

[Espeefan]

Wow, the attention to detail! Incredible. You are very talented. It's just amazing to me, to see this project, and others like it, come together.

[Stefan]

Thanks Nathan! Despite all intentions to plan well ahead I run out of brass for the cylinders build and have to put it on hold for a while. But thanks to that I had time to prepare some pics from the circle build.

The basis is this 210 mm (over the tips) toothed wheel, which was laser cut from 6 mm (1/4") stainless. Here with an MDF fixture for centering the ring (see further down).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbnI5bjZkTmtFZkE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHg3a254T0xRcVU


Here you see the shaping of said ring from a 4 mm x 19 mm bar in a simple bending device. If you wonder what the black dots at the edge are, here´s the story: As I milled away 1 mm along the edge from a 4x20 bar I must have released some surface tension having the effect of bending the whole bar in its main plane, the milled surface being convex by about 2 mm in the middle portion :mad:. Trying to straight that out in the vice in a controlled way I imagined to be rather frustrating if not infeasible :(, but I remembered that there´s always this problem with contraction with welding. So I made all these welding spots with the TIG, starting sparsely and adding more until the bar was back to straight. I´ll tell you it was a good feeling turning that problem to my advantage and watching the bar returning to straight almost effortlessly.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfS0VfZTFMQ3pEUWc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcWlKb3NTSlBSX1E

Due to the elasticity (you see the spring back two pics above) the bending core is this small and makes an overlap necessary. I reckoned a coiling overlap to be less detrimental to the end result than a layer on layer kind of winding. In any case, it allowed the forming wheel (the ball bearings) to be closer to the core.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfY2VNS3lFRnRyVEE

The ends stay straight or become bent with the wrong radius, so have to be cut away.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT0I1YklwR05rejA

Attaching the ring to the cog wheel.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa1NOT2ZBR0doOW8

Then the bearing surface was ground.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYmd2ZHF5Rkd2UkU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeXByWXFlNEc5cm8

The resulting surface compared to the raw laser cut to the right.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOHhiQTdfbzVURHM


The edge if the ring is internally reinforced by this narrower ring.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMUJlU1h3NE1YVmM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUllLVHVtVVhnc0E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfS2FZaFBqS0VCX00

Thanks for looking.

Stefan

[Finster]

WOW! Just wow! Amazing work on your models, I really wish I had your talent. I love the wooden bending jig too.

[Stefan]

Glad you like it, Brian :) . The fork portion of the circle is now ready. Final fixing to the gear and ring portion to follow when I have tested the circle turning drive.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbUkyNjViLW8yY3c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa2NkcjdpUjZ6R1E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa1dBTlY5RGU0QTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT1ozRmpqNFlsY3M

Stefan

[9W Monighan]

Pretty tricky work cutting that ring to fit inside of the circle. I do that alot at my work on some of the products we build.

[Stefan]

Can sure agree on that. I actually calculated and marked the length to cut before bending. The first cut was just a bit too long (and luckily not too short).

[9W Monighan]

Can sure agree on that. I actually calculated and marked the length to cut before bending. The first cut was just a bit too long (and luckily not too short).

If you think on the lines of the neutral axis of the piece your cut length will come out close plus the flat material on the ends . When you bend something, the outside area is stretching and the inside area is compressing. When we bend and cut an arc we calculate the circumference of the web were we can wrap a tape ruler around and cut to size.

[Stefan]

Yep, I meant the length of the neutral axis ;). Btw, what dimensions are we talking about in your case?

[Stefan]

Here some "making of" pics. First the brackets for the blade tilt cylinders.

The original. Actually, I just realize I forgot to round of the outer corner :o Well, better that than rounding of something which should be well defined.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOHJLRUtYRUc2TVU

Cutting at an angle saved some material.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVVFsdm5iMTk0bTQ

Getting the top surface of the pieces parallel with the top of the jaws (having made sure the latter are at a right angle to the spindle axis).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRVd6b1FWcHQzYm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUDB4c2s4MjFWTGs

Later, same procedure but new set-up for drilling.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWUJlWUFWQmJrMWc

1.2 mm drill.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMDdPN09qQlk0azQ

Tapping M1.4. Always quite scary tapping the smaller threads in stainless 1.4301 (SAE grade 304), since this material has a strong tendency to work hardening. But I need it for its weldability.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVG0zaW9lc0s5VFk

To be continued. Thanks for looking.

Stefan

[mazdaparts]

looking good. Wish I had a thimble full of the talent displayed in these projects.

[Stefan]

Some more circle making pics. To start with a "quick and dirty" jig for adapting the bracket base to the radius of the circle ring.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSl8wRXJNLWNkeVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQVdGTVNFc3BUUDA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa29OZmlFOThQdFE

And another setup for rounding the bracket ends. The center of the bracket hole is offset by 0,5 mm from the center of the turning table.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNVJKQ3J3Y3g1R0U

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR0c1ejRwMzJ4NjA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdXBYOF9reXB2WWc


Each bracket was provisionally fixed with two welding spots to a circle arm.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSXQzM0ZuQlNkRG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfelFqcDFCRmI3STA

Here the brackets have already been hard soldered and the circle arms are being connected with a 16 mm rod.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQnc3MHlHNUlVcjA

Thanks for looking.

Stefan

[D8R]

A lot to do 1 model, here´s 2 at the same time! guess you will have spare parts for rest of life, ha ha.
dan

[Stefan]

Yeah, Dan, assuming the build itself doesn't take rest of life...

Sometimes I wonder whether making two was the wisest decision :confused: Now, having come this far, I will, and I'm still motivated to, continue not only building both models, but doing it more or less in parallel, since repeating all steps later for the second model would seem to be less efficient.

Stefan

[gipicarto]

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5117/yoghia.jpg

[Stefan]

The tandem bearings are ready. There´s a split outer ring attaching to the tandem box, an inner ring attaching to the rear axle and a bronze ring there between, fixed relative to the inner ring. The bronze ring has the same dimensions as a certain "standard" 4-point contact, thin section bearing with a split inner ring. Unfortunately, however, the only supplier I know of couldn´t deliver :mad:.

To the left the two faces of the outer ring.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUFFuSlVSeGRCNFk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcXkzY096STFwUVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMzFXS3pQR2gtSEk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSVVOOU9raUJDTm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfaW5DREp3R2UwRzg

At the end I decided to split the bronze ring and make a one-piece inner bearing ring.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfakgydXdMVmYwbU0

Finally, everything fits.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZW1WelFVUVlJNUk


Making of

The bronze rings were made first, to allow for easy test fitting with the other rings.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZDAtWEZsV1FDMms

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSGRDSWVWNG9KdEk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWGxDWVVjUXRQSVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVUF6dWlDQjNVaWc


The main outer ring portions being parted off.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfanpaS0J3cnE3aXM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfd3ZXa0dmVEN3YTQ

Test fitting during grinding.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcXptemFJVmxHa2M


The stub was barely long enough for machining the other outer ring portions.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSkVpaXRadjVtYTA

I hate making thin things. Either you have this rather insecure and hard to adjust grip or you have to make a jig.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZWVVRVd0TExGVEE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcHZOemotVUZyb2c

This threading apparatus is really an excellent tool.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbE9wSzBmRHF5b28

Thanks for looking.

Stefan

[Hemi1966]

Once again, excellent job Stefan. I don't have any more words to praise your work:)

About the threading apparatus for how small tap can adjust it ?

[plow jockey]

Your skills are amazing ,a true artist.

[Stefan]

Once again, excellent job Stefan. I don't have any more words to praise your work:)

About the threading apparatus for how small tap can adjust it ?

And once again thanks, Hemi. This morning I didn´t have the appropriate words for your X-frame :eek:, that´s why no comment:D

As to your question: My device from Vertex (VTA12-JT6) officially takes M3 to M12, but I just test inserted an M2 (shaft dia. 2.9 mm) and an M2.5 (shaft dia. 2.7 mm [sic]) and that seems to work too (for the M2 only the threaded portion was visible). For the smaller taps the lower limit of the adjustable torque might be too high, but I still think it would work for M2 in aluminum. According to the user instruction there´s a smaller model (VTA7-JT6) for M2 to M8.

Stefan

[Hemi1966]

And once again thanks, Hemi. This morning I didn´t have the appropriate words for your X-frame :eek:, that´s why no comment:D

As to your question: My device from Vertex (VTA12-JT6) officially takes M3 to M12, but I just test inserted an M2 (shaft dia. 2.9 mm) and an M2.5 (shaft dia. 2.7 mm [sic]) and that seems to work too (for the M2 only the threaded portion was visible). For the smaller taps the lower limit of the adjustable torque might be too high, but I still think it would work for M2 in aluminum. According to the user instruction there´s a smaller model (VTA7-JT6) for M2 to M8.

Stefan

Thanks for the information, I always thought that those tapping devices don't work with so small taps, but apparently I was wrong.
May I ask where did you by yours ?

[Stefan]

You´re welcome. I bought mine from Wabeco (http://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/) at a fair, but since then I saw it much cheaper (for 199€ - 30% off) somewhere else (don´t remember where), so search carefully.

[Hemi1966]

You´re welcome. I bought mine from Wabeco (http://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/) at a fair, but since then I saw it much cheaper (for 199€ - 30% off) somewhere else (don´t remember where), so search carefully.

Stefan, thanks again for the information of the tapping device, got mine few days ago and it works great:) I purchase the Vertex VTA7-JT6 from Ebay.

[Stefan]

Can imagine it served you well during the excavator track build ;)

I on the other hand haven´t spent much time in the workshop lately :( (My wife had some other plans for "us" and the house after the summer, something which will still take some months). Could occasionally sneak into the workshop, but have only managed to turn the end caps and started making the front inserts for the cylinders.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTDNIejBHaXJqVmM

What looks like a shadow in the right uppermost (finished) insert is actually an O-ring (11/1 mm).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT3lQd0hXb21rXzA

Stefan

[speedy8305]

This is definitely a build to watch I love the detail I must say all you guys that work with a lathe and milling machines are very talented

[Stefan]

Sorry "speedy8305" and everyone else, it has not been so much to watch lately, but I did manage to make some more parts for the cylinders.

Here the circle drive cylinder parts. Only the cylinder brackets are still missing. Of all cylinders I´d like to finish the circle drive cylinders first in order to be able to perform tests and find out whether the control valve can be made to scale (if at all :confused:).
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWnVhVG9Ickd0U2s

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTi11dVZuckJvZVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRWRWa3pZSTJsbDg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdUpBLWZLMzEtUkE

Stefan

[D8R]

Stefan, nice to see that you started building again, looking forward doing an inspection locally maybee in april!
Are all the "white" parts made in Delrin?
/Dan

[ihbuilder]

looks great Stefan :) Looks like I see wear rings and wiper seals , Neoprene I assume ? did you buy them or make them ? I assume the later

[Stefan]

Thanks! The material for the wear rings for the piston as well as for the "wipers" is PTFE, the "whiter" looking white. The smaller, slightly transparent wear rings for the piston rod is from polyamide PAS 60. No deeply founded rationale for the choice, but simply what I had available. You assume right: Self made. Not sure the "wiper" will actually wipe (that´s my reason for the quotation marks :rolleyes:). Some of them don´t have the smallest diameter at the very end. Will probably redo them when I get a better turning tool.

Stefan

[JAMMER]

Stfen I don't know if you come up with a wiper for you cylinders yet but I needed a wiper and a o ring for Liembach cylinder and went to my local place that rebuilds cylinders and the parts guy came up with what I needed for the wiper it was some kind of a semi hard fiber it worked great. Ed

[Stefan]

Thanks for the fiber stuff tip. I spent some time with the CAD program (pretty long, actually :o) and came up with the so called "anchorage" for the lift cylinders. The shapeway price is $54 for the stainless version.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVk9KYTY1RkI4czg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUVM1aEdTRTgwYW8

The cylinder portion, bevel inclusive, is 19 mm (3/4") in diameter by 11 mm long.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQzI0RUwxaHF6cFk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfN2NtQ2NydU5DTWs

Stefan

[John T.]

i am simply awe struck to see the amount of work and detail that people like you and D8R are putting into your creations. I've always loved rc and dremped of such a detailed model but you guys are putting it down in metal WOW!!! and from scratch. My dream is to do such a thing with an excavator so you all can count on me following your stories. Thanks joe [little giants] for leading me here, an awsome forum no doubt!!!

[Espeefan]

Stefan, glad to see you are still working on the Volvo. When I look back at all your photos again, and everything you've machined, it really is humbling. I'm not a machinist by trade, but I do try to get by, making parts for my own builds. I have a good night on my mill, now and again, but the parts I make are so simple. If I start feeling good about what I do machine, but then see what you are capable of, well, it sort of just humbles a guy and helps him realize he's got a long way to go, and a lot to learn, before he can think about building something like your grader. Then again, I do not mind feeling humbled in the light of your work, as long as you keep sharing more photos of it, and the process you use to make your parts! Always learn something new each day. :)

[Stefan]

Wow, Nathan, you made me speechless for quite a while there :o but thanks a lot for the warming words. I´ll try to do them justice in the future as far as I can. But there are much more skilled people out there, in my case you have to attribute most of the alleged success to expensive machines and good tools. This project is the main reason I bought my mill, the lathe, the welding gear, the soldering equipment, the CAD program, and a lot of other things. I even had to buy a new PC before I could start. And don´t forget I let companies do a good deal of the sheet cutting and foundry details. If I have any particular asset it is probably patience. So, aim high, keep learning and don´t feel too humbled.

Stefan

[Azonic]

Stefan, outstanding work you doing, really impressive!

What lathe and mill are you using?

[Stefan]

Thanks. Both machines are from Wabeco; one F1210 mill and a D6000 lathe.

[Azonic]

Thanks. Both machines are from Wabeco; one F1210 mill and a D6000 lathe.

Ok, i have been looking around for a new lathe and have looked at the Wabeco ones, seems like really nice machines, if i have the money someday i will pick one up! Thanks!

[Stuff]

WOW! just WOW!


http://www.coverslike.com/thumbs/shut_up_and_take_my_money-t2.jpg

[RCLogger]

I agree WOW

greg

[Stefan]

Found some more pictures, and, since Nathan amongst others (me included ;)) likes to see the process of making parts, I will not withhold them.

So this is how I aligned the piston rod with its ring head during soldering. Note the small ring of solder paste around the piston end. I found the result to be rather sensitive to the amount of solder paste. Too little, and the solder did not fill the joint properly. Too much, and the solder spreads all around the correct place. What you don´t see in the picture is the small stub (1.5 mm, 1/16" long) at the end of the rod inserted in a corresponding hole in the ring. For maximum strength the fit should be loose to leave a ring shaped gap for the solder to enter. I made the hole about 0.15 mm (6 "thou") oversized.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfejZXYmZtc1E4cjA

The next pic I just shot to show how the solder was added. I´m not so good at adding the right amount manually for these delicate jobs, so I bent a piece to fit around the rod and stuck it in the paste. When the water in the paste boils those small pieces of solder tends to move away from the corner, so have some pointed object at hand for pushing them back.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTkhlVFA0MG5WY2c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR1hTWlg2dmt1VzQ

Stefan

[RCP57]

Thanks very much for posting that! You've just taught me how to do something and I appreciate it!

Reg

[Stefan]

Thank you for the appreciation, Reg!

Meanwhile I made adapters for the chain wheels.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOTUxVXNaVXM5OE0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQ1VYYzRnYVF0czA

Using off-the-shelf clamping sets.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfemF4OVFWVU1aekk

Thanx for looking
Stefan

[Stefan]

Here some pics of the drawbar assembly:

The scale thickness of the side plates is 2,5 mm, but only 3 mm (1/8") was available, so I removed 0,5 mm along the edges. Now they at least look to be to scale.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfM3pQdThoNFo2S0E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfN0htcWR5MVJMYTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSTNaOEZ3aVBvWHc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOW9JMzRIdFlVQ1E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa3JFTGxlNFdyN00

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfckZKbDJBMXFpSEE

Luckily I found stainless balls of the correct to scale size (18 mm). They were glued with epoxy resin to the stub.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdTNtWXgwZk5SOXM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTU5qLTZ5SmdBcm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZEh3dDdZTGF0c1U

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSVhIRkZydEF1c0k

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHlMMUVPMHhfbnM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRWtjTl96YjhvUzA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUEVoVnpZdUt1REE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSkttbGl4ZGc2blk

Thanks for looking.
Stefan

[JAMMER]

This is another amazing excellence scratch build. I know you milled some metal off to make thing perfect but only you would know but then again if you are like me that would drive me craze knowing I didn't fix it. Ed

[Azonic]

Crazy build, crazy skills! Keep it up Stefan!

Kalle

[Stefan]

Some of the circle guides. Plastic strips will be added later to form the actual glide surfaces.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcTRVUTZXY3hHQlU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOEsxZ2NiU3pxb0k

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSlc1TDhleXZUWTQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYnRsR2FUZlA2SnM

Stefan

[cdm]

Talk about attention to detail...

You actually milled the thickness down to scale (or close enough). Looks like you are building a clock if one didnt know better.

[SmallHaul]

Amazing work. Thanks for posting so much detail and info.

[Espeefan]

Stephen, your project just keeps getting better and better! The drawbar looks amazing. The circle guides, and every other part that you made, to make the draw bar a complete assembly is just incredible. I'm glad you are sharing even the little details with us.

[Kingcam2]

Hi Stephen

I was going to ask if you were willing to sell this as a kit but after seeing some of the tools and gear you used to make it there no way I could make it at the moment.

but I love the work you have done so far.

From Cameron.

[Stefan]

Guys, thanks for the nice comments!

I made ball joint parts for the blade lift (here only loosely fitted).

Luckily I managed to find some stainless balls of correct diameter (11 mm). Unfortunately they are somewhat too narrowly cut in the direction of the hole, what causes a step when fitted on the axles, especially the conical ones. Will have to camouflage that later with some filler.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZnQ1MkFzTVN1b3M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfS2lScjR0THlIZ2s

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWGdwWVVSUFp1QlE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOVgwVFk4dTJNU0k

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfck9TX2w3bnl0Tnc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVEJrNUlyd1l0VUE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQVJCc0ZWbFczaG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVHdiMzdwMWNRZE0

Thanks for looking.

Stefan

[max52]

compliment is very good job

[D8R]

Hat off for you Stefan. Don't know anybody else who should concider to make holes in stainless steel balls!
/Dan

[JAMMER]

I second that making holes in stainless that small is quite a feat. Ed

[Stefan]

OK, sorry, I think there's misunderstanding here - I cannot take any credit for making those holes, the balls were extracted like that from off-the-shelf ball joints. But I did indeed drill the holes in the front balls shown in posting #137.

Stefan

[oldwestrnwear]

quality! dedication! skill! I cant find the words to explain how bewildered I am by the skills and talent of the people on this form

simply amazed
perry

[JDH429]

Drooooool.. Wow! Im speechless...

[Kingcam2]

Any updates on this Grader?

Also would you be willing to sell this as a Kit too?

[Stefan]

Thanks perry and "JDH429"!

@ Kingcam2: No, not much to show. Going even slower as usual at the moment. Made a bending jig for some brackets. Will show later.

Even if a wanted to, I don´t think I would ever have the time to make a kit of it.

Stefan

[AbelVincze]

Congratulation on this machine! I can't find words to say what i feel:) The quality of your work is perfect.

Can't wait to see it working!

[Stefan]

Well, thanks a lot, but I fear you will have to wait for quite a while :o

Anyway, was just going to show the parts which arrived today. Looks like a water hydrant but is actually the circle turn valve - body and cap. Needs machining, of course: M3 threads for the fittings and a lining for the spool.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWUtqY09NTnhQWE0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcklOWkVhY0F6SFE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUG5FRDl2RlJkVHM

And here when painted and installed :D
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfS3FMOHJmYmJvaEE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTkUteldwZmphZEU

Stefan

[Azonic]

Wow! Who makes those parts? Cast metal? Very cool!

[Stefan]

The answer to the first question is written on the box. Hint: It´s not "FRAGILE" :D You just have to upload your 3D CAD drawing and send them some bucks. The material in this case is stainless steel. Actually a powder which is laser sintered in a 3D printer.

[Mojave450rider]

Are you kid'n me! This is the sickest build I have ever seen! I am blown away.

[grumpygrady]

I am sure glad that others are using and seeing what shapeways can do for our hobby
and your build is coming along nicely

[john]

wow alot to read from start to finish several times!! very interesting!! so whats up for power train plans? please say diesel LOL kidding, very cool didnt know 3d printers could and were capable of doing that. The circle turn system is very complicated in 1:1 running two cylinders flawlesly in syncro to rotate the table gear always blew my mind watching them. good luck with machining them!!

canada john

[Espeefan]

Fancy! I still can't believe that things like this can be printed. Incredible. Those are some nice looking fire hydrants! :D

[9W Monighan]

Stefan, Just how many bucks does it take to have that printed? I was thinking about using that method to make some other parts I have planned some day.
Maybe when that day comes,it will cost less than it does now.

[D8R]

Nice parts Stefan, do you need to compensate size on drawings to get part correct size after printing (like when making a mold)??
/Dan

[Stefan]

John, I was thinking of a 400 W bl outrunner or a low rpm brushed motor and a three or four gear transmission. A problem is that the gear spread between the lowest and highest gear on the real 11 gear transmission is 15 times, i.e at 2100 rpm the ground speed is 2.1 mph in gear F1 and 30.8 mph in gear F11, so I have to find out how much of that spread can be taken up by the better low rpm torque capability of an electric motor.

Steve, the "large" part, which is 14.3 mm high, cost 12.50 euros (they actually quote the price in euros when you give a "Euroland" address). There are also different grades of plastic starting at one fifth that price. The small part is 10 mm across, 3 mm thick and went for € 6.27. For each item there is a 6 $ (yes, dollar) handling fee included, so in some cases it would pay of to upload drawings of suitably connected parts. Maybe increased competition will lower the price in the future.

Dan, a German forum colleague found out that you should enlarge your drawing by 1.8 percent to get it right at the end. I did that and 14.3 mm turned out to be 14.34 mm, not bad, and the 0.34 mm will be machined away, anyway.

[john]

so your squeezing all that under the hood? with full hydraulic system with tank and then batteries to boot? wow, ya first gear in forward range is a creeper gear loads of torque in the 970. so will you have the hood open ? and i got to ask if your having a rad and fan set up? i believe the fans are set up to reverse to blow the dust backwards threw the rads to help keep them cleaner. if your need engine pics or interior give me a shout and ill be able to get them within a day if i can figure out how to send then on here lol good luck keep up with the pics and great building techniques everybody from what i've read loves hearing about it!!

[john]

Wait can you 3d print rad an intercoolers? Hmm

[Stefan]

Have been thinking of rad and fan but on the other hand, and as you indicate, it will get crowded enough under the hood and the hydraulic system is not at all used as much as e.g. in an excavator and there are a lot of excavator models without rad and fan. So much for operational rad and fan. Still, there has to be at least a fan and something locking like radiators since they are clearly visible from the outside. Sure the hood will open as on the real thing. 3D printability is a bit dependent on how delicate the parts must be, have a look at shapeways.com. Thanks a lot for the picture offer! Nice to know someone having access to a 970, and a bit envy, too... :o:D

[AbelVincze]

Stefan: May i ask you about the tires of your grader? Do you already have them, or have a place to buy, or you will make it yourself (molding)? The machine i plan to build, would needs tires with almost the same size.

[Stefan]

The optional 20.5x25 tires of the original machine in scale 1:8 (D=186 mm, W=69 mm) do not seem to be commercially available. Consequently I´d have to make them, too. What size would you need, exactly?

[AbelVincze]

The optional 20.5x25 tires of the original machine in scale 1:8 (D=186 mm, W=69 mm) do not seem to be commercially available. Consequently I´d have to make them, too. What size would you need, exactly?

Mine is (in scale 1:14.5) D=184 mm, W=72 mm, inner D=70mm. But the hardest part of this challenge is to figure out how soft the tire should be to looks like the real at 1:1...

[Stefan]

OK, I forgot to mention that my tires would have an inner D=55 mm. Despite the difference from your 70 mm I'd be very interested in hearing from you if you find some tires or start making them. I fear it will be hard to figure out the appropriate softness without actually making some tires to experiment with.

[AbelVincze]

I just talked to someone who seems to be able to mold the tires, he will also make some test concerning the softness of the material. As i have any more info, maybe the finished tires, i will post it.

( The previous dimensions i mentionned was from a plan, which was not correct. The correct size of my tires 41.25/70-39 -> W=74 mm, D=172 mm, inner D=68 mm. Just for correct myself )

[Stefan]

I too have to correct myself since 20.5R25 (a wide base size) evidently relates to a 25" rim, so the scale diameter would be 79 mm or 3"1/8.

[Stefan]

I managed to finish the circle turn cylinders. Here´s a video from the first test under pressure.

http://youtu.be/qKv85_feX5Y

Stefan

[AbelVincze]

Just WOW:) 54 bar, nice...

[AbelVincze]

I'm searching for a while, and all i could find were pumps with max 10-12 bar. Are your's a commercial one, or you built it yourself? I would need 20-25 bar

[RCP57]

I'm searching for a while, and all i could find were pumps with max 10-12 bar. Are your's a commercial one, or you built it yourself? I would need 20-25 bar

Try Jung Fluid.

[Stefan]

Yeah, Reg, you nailed it. My particular setup is a Jung 4001 (type designation IPZ1-HR-3) driven by a Flyware powerREX 430-300 motor. The pump delivers 0,5 liter/min @ 40 bar and 3000 rpm and is good for 120 bar. Here some pics from the build of the coupling block.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcWFsaU5TY21iLVU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMmMxTW1Eb1B0bzA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQ3hTSzZpa1VyWmM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWEEyaWZIdlpsa2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQVNkOHBibUNyckE

Stefan

[AbelVincze]

Thanks for the tips... As always i just found something myself after posting the question: http://www.123modellbau.de/modules/wsShop/article.php?article_id=204573&location_id=47&cat_id=51774 (it looks like yours)

[Stefan]

That´s a Jung pump, alright. They have a whole range looking the same. The one in your link has a higher flow than mine. You might get a better price if you order directly from the manufacturer, Jung Fluid. As far as I know, they sell to private, too. Also Premacon sells them.

[Stefan]

Converted some rod ends from RC4WD to more scale like ones. To make it simple, I used the original balls and the bronze inserts, which were put into a new housing. That´s why they are not quite as small as the scale would have required.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZmJJdVZBbmhPQTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdHhGNTRaNzAya3M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfekNWR0NEb0h4VXM

Stefan

[Hemi1966]

You my friend are incredible:)

[9W Monighan]

OUTSTANDING!:popcorn:

[Espeefan]

Wow, exact detail, right down to the ball joint! Nice!

[Trucker_Jo]

beautiful work :drool:

[Stefan]

Thanks fellows! Have some "making of" pics to add:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLVV0d3ZtMFpJMTg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRk5NaUE4VTdXdUE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVVlfemlGYnJXOHM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTTFjdlRhNDlZWlE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfemdxNjBwSlZkQnc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUi1qSk1vR1NwVlk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfNnBCNm11MHUxMXM

[DADSGARAGE]

Wow.....the workmanship on this is exceptional!!! Remarkable amount of work and skill going into this build, the attention to details is inspiring!!

[Stefan]

Hello guys, I see an update is more than overdue, had to go to the fifth page to find the thread again.

Having spent a long time making some as-much-scale-as-seems-possible 45 degree angled fittings I couldn´t wait finishing the 90 degrees ones, and finally had the circle drive tested without them only last week, although I finished the valve already last April. With the glide bearings still missing, the tooth wheels jam in one direction, but funny enough hardly in the other, as you can see in this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXF8NQyqbuw).

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOGJvVFBmcm1pX1k

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUFBYUnV6dm9fYjA

[titandigs]

Absolutely fantastic work Stefan:drool:, GREAT VIDEO:drool::drool: now I see why you RC Para is not flying yet.:D I am sure the grader will be finished before I am 60 :D

[apfubar]

That is just amazing!

[pontiacmann]

:jaw::jaw::jaw: very nice Work Sir

[Stefan]

@ Paul, Ap, Pontiacmann: Thanks! Glad you like it.

Now to the moldboard. Started from a stainless tube with 3 mm wall thickness. The radius of the tube was only slightly smaller than needed and to my luck it widened up to almost exact scale radius when the cut released the inner tensions.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdlZHTTRKZjZiNUU

The upper edge has a non-radiused portion, so a 10 mm by 3 mm strip was added.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT0JOX2dubUlIS28

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfT1NTWlloT2EtSXM

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMnlfOWpRTzdReTQ

The real moldboard is recessed along three sides for the cutting edges as you can see here.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa1NLS1hZdFhIVDQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZmtna2ZhRnZYX28

The recesses are apparently forged in a big press, so forging was one of the build options considered, but in the end I opted for a combination of adding parts to the edges and milling and grinding out the final shape. First, the ends were bevelled.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUEtldGl4QzZVT3c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRWd6UXE1WndHV2c

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfY19OQjJYcFFsNFE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeUlSdjV1dkllWGs
Stefan

[tc1cat]

WOW!!!:jaw: It looks like I will have to watch this build a lot closer than normal builds. Your machining and thinking outside of the box makes me want to stop trying to make anything :eek::eek: You just keep setting the bar higher and higher.

Absolutely one of the best builds to date on the forum.

[littleiron]

I have to agree with tc1cat you are so skilled it's un real. Wish I had just 1/10 of the skill you have been watching very close. Keep up the good I am sure many will be watching also

[Cooper]

Man you definitely are disciplined in your work!! I have a hard time when I have to change drill bits!!! Skill and dedication are paying off, build looks awesome. Looks like you got a 1:1 to keep the details in sight!!

[JAMMER]

Stefan your skills and thought of how to preform the operation are very impressive. Thank you for sharing you skills and thoughts with us. Ed

[Stefan]

Thanks for the great comments! Think I´ll be able to post some more pictures the coming weeks.

WOW!!!:jaw: It looks like I will have to watch this build a lot closer than normal builds. Your machining and thinking outside of the box makes me want to stop trying to make anything :eek::eek: You just keep setting the bar higher and higher.

Absolutely one of the best builds to date on the forum.

Thanks a lot Lynn, but I really hope you don´t stop building, hate it to be the cause of that :o. However, now when the circle turn valve is finished I don´t think the bar can come much higher in this build (maybe except for the swivel valve, where there is very limited space for the hydraulic fittings).

I have to agree with tc1cat you are so skilled it's un real. Wish I had just 1/10 of the skill you have been watching very close. Keep up the good I am sure many will be watching also

Thanks! But don´t underestimate yourself. With some time and thorough planning you can achieve a lot. But sure, you need the tools.

Man you definitely are disciplined in your work!! I have a hard time when I have to change drill bits!!! Skill and dedication are paying off, build looks awesome. Looks like you got a 1:1 to keep the details in sight!!

Thanks! I really wish I´d have the original within reach. Still I´m lucky, cause the BAUMA fair is within 1 hour driving distance.


Stefan your skills and thought of how to preform the operation are very impressive. Thank you for sharing you skills and thoughts with us. Ed

Thank you, Ed.

Stefan

[D8R]

Impressive video and photos of the work you do, Stefan. I think Your work is inspriring for most of us. Looking forward to coming updates!
Dan

[Gibbs98]

Terrific project. Great photos.

[Themonty73]

Wow Stevan,

This is a FANTASTIC build thread and words can't discribe how great the level of skill needed to complete this task well done keep up the great work

:jaw::jaw:

[Stefan]

Thanks for the recent comments. Now, to the bevelled ends the recessed portions were separately attached.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOVNkc00wemREZ2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfandsRThKeWZPS2c

Simple jig :D to align the lose parts.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOTU3Y2QySWVodWs

Some tig spots.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfczNGNzhqbzhVUm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbWZPaUExVDZIdDQ

Before and after hard soldering.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWlp3T2E3Z2JRWGc

Stefan

[Stefan]

The recessed end portions were bent with a more sturdy fixture than used for other parts earlier in the build.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVmF3TllzVjBhM1U

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSk9LUS1ONEZaUFE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbzZ4ZHhsWDNtdmc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfck02azFZUzhpak0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbHBfdlRtc3pIN3c

Thanks for looking.
Stefan

[9W Monighan]

Always fun trying to get the correct radius when bending around a mandrel like you are doing. If it's not right you have to keep turning down the mandrel diameter till the spring back is where you want the radius to be.
Sometimes when I bend 180deg bends , the mandrel needs to be maybe 1/4'' smaller diameter than my finished bend.

[Stefan]

Steve, in the figure I´ve tried to illustrate a piece of material which has sprung back after having been tightly bent around the mandrel. The next time you bend something you should note down the spring back ratio k=R/r of the material. This, in my experience, is a material constant. So thereafter you can easily calculate which D you need for the R you really want as:

D=2R/k-t

where, obviously, t is the material thickness.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOXFGQ0tQaG4wWGs

Stefan

[Stefan]

I´ve some pics from modelling the lower edge of the moldboard blade. First, a 2 mm strip had a radius formed to it and was soldered to the back of the blade.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeldaX0NaY3JfZFU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfd0k3My1mdzQtaG8

The heat caused some unwanted bending
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYU1QdEdPeC1BRGs

Milling the forward side to replicate the recess. The strip enabled a good grip in the vice.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfYnRscnl4YWFFUVk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSlU4VG9lU0FZbXc

This is the first pass with the radius mill which took care of the concave radius of the S-shaped bend. There were a further two passes made to approximate the convex radius. I still have to remove (probably by grinding) the remaining material on the convex radius.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRDZDN0dPVlB3b0E

Thanks for looking.
Stefan

[Stefan]

Short update: Got the laser sinterered end pieces for the rear axle (works on blade has been put on hold). Needed a little machining, of course.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRmJ2cndYQjZjdG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfODBqUVc1U0NBSTA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfZXFFd0pQYldZYVE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSWU0MHlkTXRnLUU

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUzJ4TC1YZW91dlk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfc2hFY2hoVGtyMVk

[Rimrock]

The laser sintered parts looks great. Is this Stainless steel + bronze? I am about to order some parts of that material, and have noticed it is very hard material. Is it difficult to tap threads into this material? I would guess that with smaller taps than M3-M4 there is big risk for the taps to break?

[Stefan]

Yes, it is stainless steel + bronze and it is indeed rather hard and tough. I use hard metal drill bits whenever possible. Even the HSS ones specially made for "normal" stainless wear much too fast. You are also right that it is very easy to break the smaller taps, because the torque needed is so large. Nevertheless, the smallest done so far was M1 for the screws holding the lid on the circle valve. The secret is to drill larger holes than the standard says, using high performance tapping grease and to make sure you tap straight. By the way, the tap you see in the last picture is an M3 thread former. I´m getting more and more fond of using formers since the day I managed to make 64 M1.6 threads in AISI 304 (1.4301 X5CrNi18-10) without breaking the tap (I did brake one or two drill bits, though). As you know, 304 is good for welding but hard to cut, since it cold hardens. In my experience, the stainless steel + bronze from Shapeways is even tougher than the 304.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdHVwbGpmYkZCb0U

[D8R]

Interesting way of manufactoring, Stefan. Didn't know that was possible. Hard to tell but what is the size of the valve?
/Dan

[jack van]

:Di do think we have a master craftsman at work this is an incredible build and i can not wait to see more of your work not just of this model do have any other master pieces that you have made plz send me pics my email .s jvan320@gmail.com

[Stefan]

@Dan: The size is 15,6 mm from bottom to top of the lid. The body diameter is about 8,5 mm.

@Jack: Thanks! I´m glad you like it. More pics will be coming.

/Stefan

[Stefan]

Finished the end pieces for the rear axle.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfX1dRbHoxR3FLMk0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfQVdIWVZLZDFHQ00

In it goes the planet gears carrier/output shaft from a cordless screwdriver.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR01pX0d6UkpocU0

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa2I2aTFvcTllQW8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfOFpUOVJBM2tkNE0

Thanks for watching.
Stefan

[Stefan]

The outgoing drive shaft hub is finished, so here are some more pics:

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfeE8zc1pPZ1J6dEk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfTWFISVhpYmJpQjQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfc0YwbTZrYTNmSjQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfejhrc3lrQ2I2VWc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWFkzdVUwaVpHVG8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSjVhcmxRTDY3QVk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRnZNUkJLXy1RdHc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSkdzVVVkYXAxdWc

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfR1YxMGU3RXk1cTA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfc05ydllNdjE3LVk

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfa3E3TFVobHZnc1E

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcnZ1WlFja2ZGU00

Stefan

[ihbuilder]

Very nice, Stefan

[Jared]

Those planetaries look great! Well, everything else does, too.

[Azonic]

Great job, this will be one **** of a model when done!

[titandigs]

Great work as usual Stefan

[RCLogger]

WOW Another work of art Stefan,
Thanks for keeping us involved in your build. :D
Greg

[Stefan]

Thank you guys for those words of appreciation.

Havent´t done much on the grader lately, but anyway I got the so called "anchorage" for the lift cylinders from Shapeways and started some machining.

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVk9KYTY1RkI4czg

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWTBQZlp0c2NxNm8

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfLVRtUzF3ck1BUEU

[AbelVincze]

Stefan, can you tell me some words about these printed steel parts? Are comparable as hard/strong than a traditional molded steel part? (I would like to make my machine's axle housing this way, but it needs to be strong enough)

[Stefan]

For hardness/strength reasons I wouldn´t hesitate at all making an axle housing from it. Maybe from a price and machining points of view. It´s actually very tough. Drilling is as difficult as for normal stainless steel, if not worse. You´d better use high quality carbide grade tools.

[AbelVincze]

Thanks for the tips.
I forget to mention that i'm amazed by each step of you progress. Very nice. really.

[Stefan]

Recently this was delivered from the foundry (500 grams per piece):

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfRzRSUGRGNlJyMlE

Was I :) ? No, rather :( and :mad: !
Why? Have another look!

/Stefan

[Azonic]

Nice parts, I guess one is made the wrong way?

[Lil Giants]

Nice parts, I guess one is made the wrong way?

Which one? the top middle should look the same as bottom middle or just the bottom middle wrong... :thinking:

What are the pieces for?

Incredible work you're doing here Stefan using many methods to make parts as exact as possible. :eek: :cool:

[Stefan]

Tack and thanks, Kalle and Joe!

The pieces are the arms for the lift cylinders, you can see one behind the cylinder in my first posting of 03-01-2016.

Yeah, I ordered two each of the right and left arms but got three right arms and one left. So, one could be really funny here and say that they didn't get it right although they tried hard to make everything right :D And one right that is left will be returned :D:D so hopefully I'll have the right one, i.e. another left arm, soon, very soon, so consider this an arms race :lol:

Stefan

[Lil Giants]

Great play on words Stefan :D... generally, how long does it take from design to finish piece for these type of parts?

[Stefan]

Well, Joe, to start with the summary that would be almost 20 hours of my own (in-? :o)effective time for each piece and, theoretically, if I hurried every step as far as the circumstances allow it, it could be done in, say, 4 to 7 weeks.

In detail I can see from my notes that I spent 13 hours spread out over a fortnight turning my documentation of the original blade lift arms into CAD drawings. Then the 3D printing shop apparently printed the mould patterns within 24 hours of receiving the CAD file. After that I had to manually adjust the patterns, because some bevels and free form surfaces had been too complex to model with my CAD program. Additionally I had to fill and sand the surface, since the 3D print layers were too coarse. I guess that took at least 3 hours for each pattern. The foundry sent me the castings about 3 weeks after ordering. I suppose that could go faster if you are a well known customer. Now I´ll probably need another 2 hours machining per casting and I just noted that there are some surfaces in need of filling due to shrinkage - add another 2 hours. Also add some overhead for contacting the service provider and mailing things.

Now, Joe, it´s time to give more meaning to the word "theoretically" used above. As you may have come to understand by now, I don't feel much urge to hurry things, and in fact the first session of drawing these parts took place as early as in December, 2007.

Cheers!
Stefan

[D8R]

Amazing work done Stefan. I do so like the casting technic with part numbers included. What a level of details!
Dan

[thetractorfan]

I love the planetary gear sets! Those should last awhile.

[Stefan]

Hej Dan. Thanks! See you in three weeks?

@"thetractorfan": Well, there are some serious doubts about that due to the high weight of the model. Time will tell.

Stefan

[Lil Giants]

I congratulate you Stefan on your dedication to get 'er right... I sincerely hope you live long enough get 'er done! :D

[Stefan]

Yeah, thanks Joe, that thought has crossed my mind, too ...and I haven´t even started making the tires... :(

Stefan

[Bo Wallen]

Stefan I am Blown away over you're Grader Build......can't find superlative enough !!! Did you look at Coopers Tire-making. They are super nice. I saw them in person @ Cabin Fever. By the way i want a grader badly :D

[Stefan]

Thanks Bo. Haven´t heard of Coopers Tire before so thanks for the tip but if they make scale tires they seem rather quiet about it and I haven´t been able to find anything useful on the net.

[Bo Wallen]

Ooh !!! Sorry I was thinking of Our fabulous Cooper on the forum. http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=9048&page=48

[bigford]

tire building starts on post 966. before that its just 12 y/o kids having fun

[Stefan]

Ha, ha! :o Thanks for clarifying that before I contacted the Cooper Tire & Rubber Company :p

[Cooper]

Lol!! Cooper tire!!:). Stefan, I got most of my info from members on this forum. The pages Bo is talking about will explain better once you read through the b.s. Conversations. :). I looked far and wide for a tire to suit my build and just couldn't find what I wanted, so I made them. Pretty easy to do. Hard part is making the first one or the pattern tire. If you have the ability, and I'm sure you do, find a pattern that is scale appearance and uni-directional. You'll have one good side and a not so perfect side. If I did it over I would have spent more time on the pattern/blank tire because the silicone does transfer every small detail/imperfection. Initially it's a little costly but you get exactly what you want. My tires were say 8" tall and after I pulled them from mold they shrink about 1/4" in height, about 1/16" in diameter. I made two piece rims to act as the beadlock to prevent slippage. If you got any questions I've been following your build and will try and answer whatever I can. Your build is pretty awesome!!!!

[Stefan]

Yeah, the forum is great. Always someone with a good idea if you get stuck. Cooper, your tires look awesome! You have come far in this hobby in just some 3 years. I sure will review your tire build if I have to mold my tires myself. I´m also considering pneumatic tires. A pal of mine did it for his 1:12 models and it improves running a lot and looks excellent. It involves a lot of extra work but especially for a grader it might well be worth it. The pal has 150+ videos on youtube and I spent only a couple of minutes finding an example of them tires squatting, so there´s probably some even better example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yXIwv6qu5Q

On his dumper you see it all the time if you look carefully, but particularly at, for example, 1:00 and 3:40:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rb2oWCIRtsg

Stefan

[Cooper]

Thank you for those videos. Love his machines!! Built to be run hard and he puts them to hard work. I'll be spending the next couple days watching those videos!!! I did think about making the tires air but I just didn't have the ambition to go that way. That adds another level of skill and scale!! Some day I may be there:). Thanks!!

[AbelVincze]

Very nice tires:) Is there any information online, how they were produced?

[Stefan]

At least there used to be such information. However, it was written in German and, the last time I saw it, the picture links were dead. I'll try to find the article again.

Stefan

[Stefan]

Sorry, I´ve only been able to locate this German posting on the tire making (http://http://www.modelltruck.net/showthread.php?14029-Volvo-L220e) (see post #8). And you have to be registred :(

[AbelVincze]

Thank you Stefan, i will check it!
Edit: for some reason, the link is not working for me.

[Stefan]

Here (http://www.modelltruck.net/showthread.php?14029-Volvo-L220e) (the colon was missing, I cannot edit. Maybe the Admin can correct it and delete this post?, thanks).

Stefan

[AbelVincze]

Thanks, it works (just have to wait an admin for registration approval...)

[Stefan]

Here is the continuation of post 218 (http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showpost.php?p=140359&postcount=218).

Setup for drilling and inside turning of the eyes:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSHhxRG5SUGZleDQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfSHZEVTVucW9ub3c

Setup for making parallel the side faces:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfbS1GRFVBN0UycTA

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfVWVOZzB3TllSSkU

Tapping M1.6:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfUkU0NE0xYWlxbmc

Making the "covers":
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfN1p2NmtkZ25jNTA

Inserting igus iglidur bearings (flush cut after bottoming out):
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfdzZwMG5sWmZQTmc

Assembly:
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfcS1odUU3MXVGbVE

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfMzNhRWhUdjdrTDQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfWHdJcldrNVZJS2M

https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B_yTu9ivQsvfb0R3R3ZGQ2JlUW8

It remains to shorten the necessary screws.

Thanks for looking,
Stefan

[egronvold]

Sure you're not building a 1:1 grader? I'm not sure what I appreciate the most; your patience or handcrafting skills :)

[jack van]

it is very very nice work good on you a master at work:D

[D8R]

Stefan, you'r setting the bar very high now. Those details will make this grader stand out. As mentioned above, is this 1:1??
/Dan