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#161
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![]() ![]() Definitely have enough tilt!!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() That's how far movement can happen before anything touches. I don't know how much tilt d11s have, maybe 15~20 degrees?? Going to start working on stabilizer arms
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#162
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#163
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#164
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Looking good so far I was just wondering what u used for track I did not notice if u said also did u get plans for it r just doing out of your head but keep it up
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#165
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#166
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![]() ![]() ![]() Added a little of the detail. ![]() Work on the side of the engine compartment and trying to blend into the front. Wanted to make the front sides a bit beefy for the blade hydraulics to attach to. Not sure how I'm going to accomplish that part, it's like cast into the side. Might mill a slot into,,,,well when I get there I'll be straining the brain again ![]() ![]() I did re-do the roller wheels. Same internal size but made to look bigger. I think it make a big difference in appearance.
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#167
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![]() ![]() ![]() Working on the skid plate for front. Hats off to you metal workers!! Seems simple and easy but trying to transfer measurements from paper template to the actual metal shape is a bit of luck for me. Some minor tweeting but it will fit. I'm going to be bolting it to frame. Originally I was going to wrap it up the sides like the 1:1 dozers but a bit too complex for me ![]()
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#168
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You did a fine job yourself.
![]() What gauge is that?
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#169
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![]() ![]() ![]() A couple more in process,,,, Lil giant, I'm working with 22guage, thin enough to burn through during welding very easy and thick enough to not be able to use hand shears. Just the right size to make it hard to work with (for me ![]()
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#170
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![]() ![]() ![]() I think I'll have the skid plates done by weekend. Have to weld two pieces yet. But this is what I've come up with so far. I have a 2-56 broken tap in one of those holes and I over tightened a brass 2-56 screw trying to get the metal to lay a little more flat and twisted the head off. More work!! I'm going to mill out the tap and drill out the brass then I'm going to try that aluma-weld stuff. If that does the job I'll be able to re drill and tap new holes. It just adds more time and the p.i.t.a. Aspect. ![]()
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#171
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![]() ![]() ![]() Figured I will need to have rotational movement if I plan to have a tilting blade. I will be using stainless with a setscrew as a retainer for the pivot shaft.
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#172
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here's one for you lil'giants, I saw you recently got a "smart" phone ,, lol, actually once I figured out how to make a simple call all was good. There are some very useful apps, this one comes in handy a lot!! And it is surprisingly accurate. More than I can use a sight level. But it did take me an hour or so trying to figure out how to switch all the views ![]()
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#173
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I figured this was the easiest way for a chain adjuster/tensioner. It's simply a idler, a flanged bearing, with an offset center that I can set the free play. As I didn't think a spring tensioner would work on account of both forward and reverse tension applies. In the pic you can see by the first one the top chain is curved. And the bottom pic with the tensioner adjusted the top chain is straight from sprocket to sprocket, and that is forward rotation to where more pressure (should) be applied by pushing a load.
![]() ![]() And a pic of the part, I'll be using a tooth washer for some more security of keeping it in position. ![]()
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#174
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And if I show the good I guess I have to show the bad. I broke a 2-56 tap off in one hole and spun the head off a brass 2-56 bolt. So I decided to mill out the broken and use that aluminum weld stick stuff. I watched some tube videos and tried it. Well the vids make it look fast, I heated and heated with mapp gas. Well I just missed that magical temp as by the time I was done fixing the holes I had a big drooping bulge of liquid aluminum on the bottom. Well once I learned how to use it the second part was pretty easy. That stuff comes in handy. But now even though I was using it to fix a part and save some machine time by not having to remake the part I think I will anyway.
![]() First try. ![]() Second part, top hole was the one remade.
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#175
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Thank you Cooper for the tip on the phone app, I'll look at doing the same for my phone too.
![]() And the set up pics of machined parts, I'd be interested in seeing more of them too. My knowledge of machining & how to do it safe & accurately is very limited. I've just got a mini mill right now in my house, never did anything too complicated with it b/c of its lack of rigidity. But my soon to be finished garage will be getting a bigger one this fall, probably one like yours & I'll look forward to do more of my own machining. And tips on accessories you use during your build would be a plus as well, plz. ![]()
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#176
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Will include some more of the machining pics. I can't say I know what I'm doing as these are scratch builds from air plans but I always figure there is a way for something to be done. Ya know that old saying if there's a will there's a way, well s few scrap parts and some broken tools later , yes there is. Lol,,,,
Have some more work to do but a pic of the skid plates. One front and one back. Both bolted on. I had to file a housing support on the motor gear housing down some but other than that it a pretty snug fit. At least keeping some debris out. ![]() ![]() And a side shot, starting to figure out operator housing and stabilizer bar. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#177
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Nice work!
Where will the hydraulics fit?? lol! |
#178
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Hey Cooper,
What's the name of the APP? I downloaded tilt meter but it's different to your screen shot. Thanks |
#179
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![]() ![]() I'm using an iphone5 and new iPad for these apps. Cliinometer is the name of the app. I've compared it to other levels and it has been more accurate than any sight level I've used. ![]() ![]() It was dark so just the screen is visible not the phone or couch it was on. ![]()
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#180
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Lol, yes the motors fill up quite a bit of space. I might be thankful that I'm making a blacked out cab, I may need that area for electronics. In a serious note I have not handled any of these pumps or valve blocks but by seeing them on the forum and for sale sites I do think things will be crowded. 5 valves (independent tilt cylinders) sabertooth esc, (forget but about 4" wide) lipo batteries, sound module , speaker, thinking about a computer fan in front grill for added cooling, and hydro pump with motor attached.
After reading what I just wrote it does sound like it will be crowded!! I think its time to order pump and valves before placement of those parts. Might be a bit of puzzle. ![]()
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