Scaleart - assembling an Arocs 8x8 roll on roll off kipper

[Rakthi]

So yesterday I finished of the roof and the rear of the cab







Re-installed the Sound Module with the cables split up and put into shrink tubing as per Christian's suggestion.



Then on the back of the cab



One of the 2mm screw holes not completely drilled through



The parts that need attaching. (the rectangular air vents I glued in with super glue)







This is where it locks onto the chassis.



Next part is the air inlet

Filed the back of the grid a bit down so it fitted a tad better.







Only one self tapping screw and washer used in this

[Rakthi]

Today, I started off with the SMX Sound Module ...

Took it off the roof again and had a good look at it. Turns out the bit under the cooling plate is basically empty with the plate seemingly just sitting on one chip. I figured it made more sense then to install it with the heavier parts towards the roof.



I also took off the shrink tubing I had put on yesterday. I had tested a couple of times, but unlike Christian (Newcomer_2) I could not get the wires with the shrink tubing to go through the cable channel provided. I guess the "Made in China" tubing available here is thicker and less flexible. So ended up bundling the wires with bits of shrink tubing.

The top wire bundle is power and speaker, the middle single one is Function 3 which is not used according to the electrical plan, and the bottom bundle are the rest of the wires. (hookup esc etc)



So I tried to program it as in the Servonaut Manual ... I left the bottom bridge on the pins for the in-line 6 cylinder engine (checked MB website, and Arocs have an in-line 6 power plant), and took out the top pin to start the programming. (wanted to turn off the peep-peep when going backwards - can't stand that sound)





Didn't cut off the cable for Function 3, just tucked it under the unit in the space left there by the roof hatch.



Roof goes on with 4 M3x8 screws and some lock washers.



Then the back goes on. The little pins go in the holes provided. The wires get tucked into what will become the wiring channel.



The reason I had to take of the shrink tubing is that I couldn't get a decent bend near the roof. This way it was easier to control.



Back bolts onto the roof with 2 m3x6 and 1 M3x8 (in the middle). It bolts to each side with 2 M2x8.



The m2x8 go into these provided slots on the sides.





Continued ...

[Rakthi]

Tried the cabin on the chassis.





Tested the locking mechanism







Now time for the air intake to be put on. (takes 4 M2.2x6 self tapping screws). 2 in the roof and 2 in the back.



Alerted by the pictures in the link Christian provided, I knew there would be a problem with the locking mechanism interfering with the intake. So only temporary screwed on with 2 screws.



So a bit of plastic had to go. (the cut will be cleaned up)



Now proper install of the intake. Found that it was easiest to first do the top part.









Next up would be the interior of the cabin.

[Rakthi]

On with the next group.

We start of with the windscreen. This could not be installed earlier otherwise wouldn't be able to attach the intake.

Consists of a window, front cover and 3 self tapping screws



The window needs to be bend a bit to get behind the sides. Also need to be aware of good positioning at the roof. I got mine stuck wrong on one of the screws of the visor. And I got some paint damage in the lower corner form not paying attention when bending/inserting it. Lucky the black cover goes over it.



Gets all fastened on the inside. Access through the bottom. Was very happy with the bendable extension I have. Was worried the screwdriver would jump and scratch the plastic.





Next the floor parts. Assembled with countersunk screws.







No way I can glue the optional carpet on when installed in cabin ...



So attach the needed screws. Already complicated enough getting the "carpet" on straight without having to deal with screws all over the place. (Carpet can be repositioned if not right first time around)





Both side pieces attached first, and the center piece goes in from below. Had to loosen the nuts from the side pieces to make it easier to get the center bit in place. Very tight tolerances.







Continued ...

[Rakthi]

Now have to do the back ledge of the interior.

For this we first need to attach the circuit board for the wiring in the cabin. This will make it possible to remove the cabine with only one plug to disconnect.











However ... connecting all those cables with the board attached will be a pain. So removed it for the duration. It can be attached again later.



The backboard goes in through the doors and I was surprised how easy it slipped in place. Had expected worse.



It screws in from the bottom. The hole in the plate is threaded.



The manual specs M2x6 ... however this makes the screw poke into the cabin with a mm or 2. Replaced those screws with M2x4s left over for another group. Perfectly flush now.



Noticed I had forgotten the seat bases. Supposed to be bolted on before installing the floor. Still easily done good access from below.





Next up the seats and dashboard or maybe I do the cabling first ... (so not looking forward to that bit)

Cheers
Stephhan

[Rakthi]

No point postponing jobs you don't like ... since nothing much going on today, bit the bullet and messed with the electrics of the cabin.

Sod's luck of course ... the bleeding power cables of the SMX are ½ inch too short ...



Inserted the LED for the indicators and attached them with a blob of hot glue. Kind of regret it, I made an error and when removing the glue, part of the paint came with it. (right side). Well one can't see it, and thinking of painting the underside of the fender black anyway like in real life, so no big loss.



Globbed some liquid tape on the back of the circuit board. Not really needed, but better safe than sorry with electricals.



Inserted the 2 plugs and the Function 4 cable of the SMX plug. Since the speaker stays in the cab, I could actually just have soldered the wires together instead of making this convoluted connection. oh well ... The speaker cables from the SMX were too thick to go into the provided holes.



Rummaged through the bits and pieces one accumulates and found a female JST (?) plug that fitted the power of the SMX Module. Came with one of my chargers, but never used it. Also fitted the Universal Bus thing to the circuit board. I could have run that one separately to the bus connectors in the lower level, but then one extra plug to undo.



Bolt the circuit board in place, which went easier than I expected.



And now to deal with the KingBus system. The wires need be coated in some solder to make them stiffer, and then you can push them in the round hole where they clip in. To release them put a thin screwdriver in the rectangular slot and push down. (I didn't know this)



All good an well for the single or double cables, but the 4 positive ones ... so I soldered them together and filed them to a reasonably small pin. (sorry shoddy pic but you get the idea) I know there are probably connectors in which you put the cables etc etc ... Wish I knew how they were called and where to get them.



All the cables inserted in the module



Module glued to the side of the cabine with the provided double sided tape.



And a view of the mess ... left all cables long enough so I can be redone if needed. Thinking of cutting some foam to hide it from sight.



So all in all this little exercise kept me busy for 3 hours + ... and I don't know if it is correct until I sort out the rest of the electric.

Cheers!
Stephan