~1:12 Miller Century M100 Rotator wrecker

[ddmckee54]

That's a nice looking beasty.

Having designed industrial control systems for half of my 35 years as an electrical engineer I can feel your pain about the wiring. Neat wiring is a good thing, but everything working correctly when all the doors are shut is better. The first time somebody needs to make a hurry-up-quick repair, neatness is usually tossed out the window.

It looks like you've got your printer dialed in pretty well. What do you normally use far your nozzle width and layer height?

Don

[dremu]

Originally Posted by ddmckee54

That's a nice looking beasty.

Having designed industrial control systems for half of my 35 years as an electrical engineer I can feel your pain about the wiring. Neat wiring is a good thing, but everything working correctly when all the doors are shut is better. The first time somebody needs to make a hurry-up-quick repair, neatness is usually tossed out the window.

It looks like you've got your printer dialed in pretty well. What do you normally use far your nozzle width and layer height?

Don

Thanks! I started out on a track to become an EE, got sidelined into software, but always enjoy electronics as a hobby. Which might be obvious her e=))

Wrt the printer, I'm on my fourth printer now. Makerbot, FlashForge, Qidi ... and the Bambu. I tell you, the Bambu Just Works. I'm a lifelong Windows guy; it's evil, yes, but the evil I know. PITA to maintain, but I mostly grok it.

Conversely, Bambu is like a Mac or an iDevice. It knows what you want and it does it. Yes, it's expensive and a closed ecosystem and works best with their filament which isn't cheap either. But it always Just Works. (Almost always anyway. I've had maybe twice the prints warp. A little glue stick on the print bed, boom.) Also fast as ****. And the AMS is fantastic, can do as many colors as you'd humanly need. Yes, it wastes some switching ("pooping"), but with careful planning of the part this can be minimized. The bumpers with the silver body and translucent turns and brakes and such -- see my Frobe and trailer threads -- are perfect examples of this.

To be specific, I almost always use a 0.4mm head and 0.2mm layer height. For the license plates the detail requires I use a 0.2mm head and 0.1mm layer height, which means it takes TWO FREAKING HOURS to print a thing that's what, 20x30mm? To be fair, it takes about the same time to print two as it does one as it's all the color switching that takes the time.