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#121
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Not much to report here, just got the wear blades done
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#122
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That's more than I can report at this time with any progress.
Your wear plates look very nice. One thing,you will need to use countersunk screws on the wear plates. |
#123
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Just amazed at this build sets the bar for quaility.
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#124
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I made the blade tilt cylinder brackets, and the side shift mechanics.
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#125
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The whole blade assembly looks great, very nice work.
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Scott "No load is too Small" |
#126
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That is bad*ss....youve got skills!
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Troy To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#127
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You have MAD-Skilzs, this is awsome!
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Giving up is not an option!!! Rob |
#128
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one of the best hand made RC's I hace ever seen.
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#129
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That looks great!
Is the outward connection of the side shift is not outwards enough, it looks like you have only relatively little movement to the right? In the original, the brackets sit much closer to the end of the blade. Is this a restriction because of the hydraulic cylinder? |
#130
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#131
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Ah yes, that makes sense. Hydraulic will be beneficial there.
Are you going for a rotary feedthrough for the blade tilt and shift? I use a spindle drive - it works very nicely and I get a lot of travel, but dirt is an issue. I am thinking about converting to a pull-pull winch - not sure, it's just a thought at this time. But for the high quality of your model, I feel that hydraulics is the way to go. ![]() Set with pictures BTW, could you tell me what diameter tube you used for your blade? Cheers Jens |
#132
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The tubes is diameter 66 mm.
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#133
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Ok, now I made the hydraulic cylinder for the side shift. It works much better than the earlier spindel , and it now has much more power and travel (50 mm both way).
Only drawback is that I might not be able to route the hoses inside the horizontal tube, and out in the middle ![]() There is also a small video clip of the side shift, and if you wonder why there is a bucket in the picture, that´s because I took the hydr. pressure from my excavator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#134
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Hemi1966;
Your machining and photos are excellant. Keep up the good work. Ken |
#135
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No words to describe the workmanship, fit and finish. Awesome seems inadequate. You made the side-shift cylinder? Would you be willing to share you construction methods, especially what seals/o-rings and how they are arranged on the piston and head.
Thanks! Ken
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Big iron is awesome! |
#136
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That is much better on the side shift. How are you going to keep the hoses from twisting when you rotate the blade?
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#137
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So smooth and quick - wow!
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#138
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The most hardest task is to make the o-ring grooves to the cap that seals the piston rod. My side shift cylinder has 4 mm piston rod, so you need very small tool to cut the o-ring grooves with lathe. And of course the grooves MUST be in correct size, or they won´t hold the pressure The picture you see here is not the side shift cylinder, it´s one I made earlier, but it´s made the same way so you get the picture. ![]()
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
#139
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What's the tool look like that you cut the inner grooves with in the rod end cap?
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Sharing knowledge is one thing that defies basic arithmetic logic --- the more you share, the more you get! Joe |
#140
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Ari To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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