evercoat poly-flex filler

[spudd]

all i can say is make sure you scuff up the area you are working on with at least 220 grit.drying time is also a factor as Travis said.i don't bother to wipe down the area but it is a good idea to.i have yet to have a adhesion problem

[JAMMER]

Travis I guess you missed the part were I said that body shops use Prep-Sol to get rid of the contamination and it is more compatible with the materials you use to clean what you are painting or filling. Ed

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by JAMMER

Travis I guess you missed the part were I said that body shops use Prep-Sol to get rid of the contamination and it is more compatible with the materials you use to clean what you are painting or filling. Ed

No I did not miss it you edited you post at 5:08 and I posted at 5:07 so you edited your post after I posted so there is no way I could have seen it before I posted. Just so you know Prep-Sol is a water based product.





Travis

[ihbuilder]

easy guys I use to have flaking and peeling with evercoat glase ( can't remember the # ) on plastic > my remedy was a good scratching before use and be sure you have your mix right , not to much or to little hardner. I haven't used the new stuff yet as metioned by Spudd , soon though Oh , obviously make sure you have no impurities ie water , oil , etc .

[Brian in PA]

Adhesion is only going to happen if the surface is scuffed. this is a must with any coating used in auto body work. the surface has to be scuffed/etched for a mechanical adhesion.

[chaseracer]

thanks for all the help guys. I did lightly sand the body with 220 grit but either didn't scuff enough of didn't clean it well enough. I will get it figured out I hope

I have always used 3m bondo filler for my other scale rc projects, and never had peeling problem before, but it srinks to much for my liking . I have heard great stuff about the ever-coat so I will get this figured out.

again thanks for the help guys. nice to have forums like this