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Electronics tech Anything to do with the electronics in a model. Lights, Radio, ESC, Servo, Basic electrical. |
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Thanks guys, I will sort thru these and determine what options to use. I am trying to to eliminated using two different battery packs in my Gator. My hydro pump is 12v and the MFU, of course is 7.4. If I thought the MFU wouldn't fry with 13v running thru it......I would just run one pack for both. I have run a medium-charged 12v thru it or about 5 minutes, but under no load and not on a fully charged pack. Too much money to cook! Tamiya said that 7.4 was the max, but i do know that it will handle almost 11v.
Thanks
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Giving up is not an option!!! Rob |
#2
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Rob, I think your best bet would be the 20 amp Castle regulator. 20 amps should be enough to handle powering the MFU and the main drive motor. As long as you are smooth with the throttle, I don't think a 540 sized motor would pull 20 amps, unless it was under a serious load. A 540 can motor can pull more then 20 amps in the right situation, so if you don't think the regulator can handle the current draw, I would suggest this. Replace your hydraulic pump motor with a 7.2 volt motor, that will run the same RPM as your current 12 volt motor. Figure out what RPM you need to keep the pump speed the same and choose a lower turn 540 motor to keep the speed up. I think it would be easier to swap the motors then to bother with a regulator. A good 540 motor won't cost you anymore then a 20 amp regulator. The only thing to be concerned with is the bolt pattern of the current motor vs that of a new 540 motor. Sometimes the Germans have some odd patterns. An adapter plate might be necessary, and maybe a longer shaft coupler of some kind.
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Nathan |
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