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Mechanical tech This is for the mechanical parts of a model. Gear reductions, Axles, Transmissions, General drive line |
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#1
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This was asked of one of the axle brands, but not answered:
What about a 'throughput' front axle, like the forward unit on the dual-rear-axle semi's. Does no-one make a simple off-the-shelf unit yet, instead of us having to buy ones with metal casings at $150 and up? I know Joe and Willy DIY'd them a while back, but isn't anyone even making a ~kit~ for those of us with minimal tools? Only Robbe really makes one 'off-the-shelf', and I honestly don't like their axles when compared to Tamiya ones. Dislike 'em enough to ditch my 8x8 'Panther' chassis if I can do it with Tamiya parts (and they AIN'T cheap) So, guys... is there a way for us Neanderthals? |
#2
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Here is a pic of a set of TLT's used that way. He is using them as steerable rear axles but it is still exactly the same. ![]() Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#3
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Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)
What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right? As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well? If no-one has done a good step-by-step, mebbe I should do one when I do it, for the archives and all that, hm? If there is one, this is a ~great~ place to put the link to it. And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around) and gear-ratio-wise? I don't want a nasty issue with a semi rear end, mismatched to a TLT front (Can you put the gear-guts from one into the other and vice-versa to maintain ratio?) Sorry for all the questions, but when I get onto sommat thats been bugging me for years, I tend to run with it. WhiteWolf Last edited by WhiteWolf McBride; 03-02-2013 at 01:36 PM. |
#4
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Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#5
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(Wild)-Willy CustomRCmodels |
#6
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Travis
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AKA "00" Biddle RIP FreddyGearDrive 2-12-59/12-19-11 |
#7
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If you get 2x TLT-1 axles and 2x center axles ( from a 3 axle truck ) , then you have all the parts for the swap without having to purchase the extra axle housing ( a-parts 0005467 + pinion-gear ) , since then you just use the left over housing half from one TLT-1 axle and fit that as last rear axle . In that case you also would have to do some cutting , but not that much , to fit it together .
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(Wild)-Willy CustomRCmodels |
#8
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You use the rear inner rims as front rims http://www.customrcmodels.com/Tanks/id86.htm
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(Wild)-Willy CustomRCmodels |
#9
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Willy:
My imagination, or is the front actually a little narrower than the outer rear axles? As I've got a semy with stock rear width, it'll help me tell if the deed is not only do-able, but would look decent enough under the body... Thanks for the assistance, WhiteWolf |
#10
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all-wheel-drive rig , but with bigger and wider tires . Therefore the front tires stick out from the fenders ( and the rear is much wider as stock ) http://customrcmodels.com/Trucks/new_6wd_project.htm with stock semi-rims and tires they would be just covered by the fenders here is a good photo from Travis's Mack : ![]()
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(Wild)-Willy CustomRCmodels Last edited by CustomRCmodels; 03-02-2013 at 02:40 PM. |
#11
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Is there a driven front driven axle with remote locking diff and complete disconnect? Or are they all open and locked only?
I have setup some wedico metal axles that can do this and it is a nice feature.
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Scott "No load is too Small" |
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