Driven front axle options?

[Snochaser]

Can a RC channel front drive/steer axle be turned into a dual-output?

[gun]

that rc channel axle sure has the right look !!!

[gun]

can some one tell me what to use on the input shaft for an axial trans. that im using for a transfer case to go to 5mm so i can build my drive shafts? the shaft on the axial tranny is small and threaded i guess i should cut it off and grind a flat end on it?

[Snochaser]

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

[gun]

Originally Posted by Snochaser

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

that doesnt help me any! but those hangers are cool as **** id like a set too

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by gun

can some one tell me what to use on the input shaft for an axial trans. that im using for a transfer case to go to 5mm so i can build my drive shafts? the shaft on the axial tranny is small and threaded i guess i should cut it off and grind a flat end on it?

Just like you said Shane cut it off and grind a flat.

Originally Posted by Snochaser

What mud flap holders was Freddy using in the above picture, anyone know?

Those are stock king Hauler mud flap brackets with springs so they work like the real mud flap brackets.

Travis

[Snochaser]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

Just like you said Shane cut it off and grind a flat.



Those are stock king Hauler mud flap brackets with springs so they work like the real mud flap brackets.

Travis

See...Gun, you didn't know you wanted to know that now didja..

Ben

[uk trucker]

thanks for posting the info on this thread, its helped me a lot. I'm making a 6X6 tipper (in UK terms)
Already got a Carson Truck Puller motor so dont need a reduction box. Instead I'm making a drop down gearbox using two of the big gears out of two spare Electrifly GD gearboxes, ( GD600 I think).
We will see how it goes!

[gun]

thanks Travis !

[Snochaser]

L...I...B.... Lurn sumthin new everday! Sun

[WhiteWolf McBride]

This was asked of one of the axle brands, but not answered:

What about a 'throughput' front axle, like the forward unit on the dual-rear-axle semi's. Does no-one make a simple off-the-shelf unit yet, instead of us having to buy ones with metal casings at $150 and up?

I know Joe and Willy DIY'd them a while back, but isn't anyone even making a ~kit~ for those of us with minimal tools?

Only Robbe really makes one 'off-the-shelf', and I honestly don't like their axles when compared to Tamiya ones. Dislike 'em enough to ditch my 8x8 'Panther' chassis if I can do it with Tamiya parts (and they AIN'T cheap)

So, guys... is there a way for us Neanderthals?

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by WhiteWolf McBride

This was asked of one of the axle brands, but not answered:

What about a 'throughput' front axle, like the forward unit on the dual-rear-axle semi's. Does no-one make a simple off-the-shelf unit yet, instead of us having to buy ones with metal casings at $150 and up?

I know Joe and Willy DIY'd them a while back, but isn't anyone even making a ~kit~ for those of us with minimal tools?

Only Robbe really makes one 'off-the-shelf', and I honestly don't like their axles when compared to Tamiya ones. Dislike 'em enough to ditch my 8x8 'Panther' chassis if I can do it with Tamiya parts (and they AIN'T cheap)

So, guys... is there a way for us Neanderthals?

It is not that hard. Buy a TLT axle Kit, extra pinion, and axle housings. Then just trim the two pinion halves to fit together. This has been done in a few threads here on the forum. All you will need for tooling is the normal tools to assemble an axle and a hobby knife for the mods to the axle housing.

Here is a pic of a set of TLT's used that way. He is using them as steerable rear axles but it is still exactly the same.



Travis

[WhiteWolf McBride]

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

If no-one has done a good step-by-step, mebbe I should do one when I do it, for the archives and all that, hm? If there is one, this is a ~great~ place to put the link to it.

And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around) and gear-ratio-wise? I don't want a nasty issue with a semi rear end, mismatched to a TLT front (Can you put the gear-guts from one into the other and vice-versa to maintain ratio?)

Sorry for all the questions, but when I get onto sommat thats been bugging me for years, I tend to run with it.

WhiteWolf

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by WhiteWolf McBride

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

Yes they are fanged and that is why I said you will need the hobby knife. Only one flange needs cut off the other will be for alignment.

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

You will be using two identical pieces molded with the same holes so alignment will be no issue.

If no-one has done a good step-by-step, mebbe I should do one when I do it, for the archives and all that, hm? If there is one, this is a ~great~ place to put the link to it.

It is a simple mod and you are only trimming one piece to make it so there is not much to show.

And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around) and gear-ratio-wise? I don't want a nasty issue with a semi rear end, mismatched to a TLT front (Can you put the gear-guts from one into the other and vice-versa to maintain ratio?)

The TLT, tractor truck, high lift, cc01, and cr01 all use the same gears. With the same rims on a TLT and a semi axle the TLT will be a lot wider. You will have to be creative to get the offsets of the rims to work.

Sorry for all the questions, but when I get onto sommat thats been bugging me for years, I tend to run with it.

WhiteWolf

Travis

[CustomRCmodels]

Originally Posted by WhiteWolf McBride

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)

What about the flanges on the axle casing? Do the casing halves that are being used have the flange/edge that overlaps (malke side?), or the other one? I ask as if it needs removal, it can be used as an alignment assist, right?

As for 'alignment', to assure that the 'throughput' pumpkin matches with the central piece, and the gear-mesh inside is ok, you just bore out the screw-holes (as you'll either have two bottoms with no access, or two tops with no thread to grab), and use long bolts and nuts instead, and it'll line up sufficiently well?

WhiteWolf

No cutting required . You just use the male housing (no lip ) part from a straight input/output rear axle and replace that with the non-input/output housing on the TLT-1 axle . Plain simple bolt on .

[fhhhstix]

Originally Posted by CustomRCmodels

No cutting required . You just use the male housing (no lip ) part from a straight input/output rear axle and replace that with the non-input/output housing on the TLT-1 axle . Plain simple bolt on .

You right Willy I was just giving the option to do it from available parts from a place like tower hobbies who doesn't carry the semi axle housings. But you right if you have the other housing there is no mod needed just bolt it together.

Travis

[CustomRCmodels]

Originally Posted by WhiteWolf McBride

Travis: (or whomever has done this, like Willy & Joe)


And lastly: how well do the TLT & Semi axles compare width-wise (assuming the same rims/tires all around)
WhiteWolf

As for the rim-offset , lock at my Krupp ( at the bottom of this page )
You use the rear inner rims as front rims
http://www.customrcmodels.com/Tanks/id86.htm

[WhiteWolf McBride]

Willy:

My imagination, or is the front actually a little narrower than the outer rear axles? As I've got a semy with stock rear width, it'll help me tell if the deed
is not only do-able, but would look decent enough under the body...

Thanks for the assistance,
WhiteWolf

[fhhhstix]

Well here is my experience with a disconnect for the front axle. I have a dump truck with a TLT for a front axle and an RC4WD 3 speed. The 3 speed is only rear output in 2nd and 3rd gear. In first gear it engages the front axle. Steering with a load sucks in 2nd and 3rd with having to push the front axle around turning the diff and drive shaft (this is where the disconnect in the axle would come in handy like Small Haul mentioned). So I find myself driving around in first most of the time. From then on after building that truck I just made them full time all-wheel drive.

[SmallHaul]

Originally Posted by fhhhstix

Well here is my experience with a disconnect for the front axle. I have a dump truck with a TLT for a front axle and an RC4WD 3 speed. The 3 speed is only rear output in 2nd and 3rd gear. In first gear it engages the front axle. Steering with a load sucks in 2nd and 3rd with having to push the front axle around turning the diff and drive shaft (this is where the disconnect in the axle would come in handy like Small Haul mentioned). So I find myself driving around in first most of the time. From then on after building that truck I just made them full time all-wheel drive.

Agree on all accounts and good informative post. That is cool that the rc4wd 3 speed disconnects the front axle in first. Do you think it is as strong as the stock tamiya trans?

I guess a compromise would be a disconnect trans or transfer case and a lockable front axle.

Does anyone have first hand experience with the lockable Lesu front axle? Is it durable and function well?