First build ,cat D11

[Cooper]

Hey guys I'm new here and have been a long time rc enthusiast. Mostly devoted to 100mph+ rc boats. I've always wanted to have a dozer but none commercially produced. So after adding a mill and lathe I can finally build my childhood dream. I use to watch my dad clearing ground on an old pony motor for starter, cable system for blade and scraper D11 or something that size. I don't know what cat model he had but it was old and I was young:) But I am stepping up to modern day and want to build a new d11.
I have no real idea of what I'm doing but have been gathering info and watching, lurking, on some sites. I'm currently gathering metals and supplies for the build. I need some help for drive system. I'm building scale 1:14 or 1:16, something along lines of the scale big rigs. I think I want to be at 12volts, right angle drives around 25 rpm? Where can I get geared drive motors? Anybody use brushless rock crawler motors/esc and gearbox? Would they be strong enough? Or stick with the brushed worm drive motors I see others using? Where to get them?
So last couple days I have been playing with making tracks, these are just some to get an idea of how to mill them and making some jigs to make them repetitive and easier. And where do you all get the small hex head bolts? Scale looking, as I would like this to look fairly real. This will be made with the intentions of being used and abused:D. Working around the rc truck track:). And I will be using hydraulics. Probably purchase pump but make rotary valves and cylinders.

[Cooper]

And a few pics of the shop

[Cooper]

And another

[Cooper]

Sorry about the one pic at a time, using an iPad and it's not allowing me to put more than one? Weird, but I am technologically impaired !!!!:jaw:

[RCP57]

Nice setup! I like your car and dog too!...Not sure I would let a cat sleep on top of a Corvette though...:p

I couldn't help but notice the Trophy/plaques on the wall. Are they from MX or Off-road racing?

Nice job on the pads as well!

Reg

[speedy8305]

lol looks like a nice corvette under the cover

[Cooper]

Nice setup! I like your car and dog too!...Not sure I would let a cat sleep on top of a Corvette though...:p

I couldn't help but notice the Trophy/plaques on the wall. Are they from MX or Off-road racing?

Nice job on the pads as well!

Reg
Yes mx, in 2001 I got my pro license and later that season I put about 180 staples in my leg :(. Several surgeries later and a couple years I leveled the practice tracks and started into a not so risky hobby, rc boats:). And yes all black vett convertible with Crome wheels for a cat bed:lol:
Irish wolfhound, Great Dane puppy (9 month old) and a Maine cooncat that rules the house!! That cat is a pita!! Just tonight I had to let him sit on my lap while I was running the lathe!! Even the shop vac doesn't scare him!! And if you don't entertain him you will pay!! Lol!!!

[Cooper]

Just messed around with trying to make some track pins. I think I may grind them to size and press fit them into the links. Steel pins and maybe steel wheels. I would like to get that screeching sound of dozers without making the tracks all steel. I prefer to work with aluminum if possible. Again these are rough and not precise. Just for idea of final project. And I am waiting on some new tools to show up (end mills, bits, screws ect. ...).

[tracksntreadslou]

Cooper check out Fastener Express and Micro Fasteners ..Gear motors at servo city or superdroid robots for a start

[Cooper]

Thanks, looks like I need to get some new taps, some small ones :)

[Cooper]

Got some time and measurements down. I figured I would try and make production as simple as possible. I'm building 20 track pads at a time, making tool changes simpler. Here is just the height profile of what will be 20 pads.

[dirtpusher9]

Looking good Cooper. One thing I would say is figure out how many pads you need and do all of them, one operation at a time. It is very boring but you are set up for that operation so you might as well do them all, being consistent. Tracks and undercarriage take the longest time but the rest of the build will be much easier. Look forward to more.

[Cooper]

Thanks for the input. I wanted to make all of them by one operation at a time but,,,, one I did get board! Two, before I got too involved in the material I wanted to make a few of them and bolt them together just too make sure they will function properly. I have kept all the settings and numbers stored so precisely duplicating any operation at any stage would be able to be achieved. I may not be conventional in my approach as I don't have plans. Pretty much everything I do is planed in my head :). No drawling or engineering print outs. Just the hard way, analog thought I guess you could say :). I'm having a hard time locating the small hex head screws I have seen others build with. At least stateside (us) and still unsure of right angle drives. Before I start on the body I need to get the power train planned out. But in time, for now I need to locate some stainless m1.6 hex head screws or 1-72 hex head screws. Need about 500-600, tracks alone will take 320.

[RCP57]

http://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=576 http://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=575

[tracksntreadslou]

http://www.fastener-express.com/hex-head-machine-screws-stainless.aspx

[Cooper]

Thanks, got some screws and small taps ordered.

Bit of trivia--- the difference between screws and bolts, screws are to be inserted into a object. Bolts are to be inserted through an object with a nut (fastener) attached. :)

Thought I would share, anyway some more track links. And I did have to change one op, I was planning on using a slitting saw to part the individual pads but my collet/saw did not have the clearance. So I had to make them a tad longer to allow the old human powered hack saw room for my perfectly straight hand cuts :)

[Cooper]

Another pic

[Stuart]

Nice work, not sure i'd have the patience to make all those track links so well done!

How high are your cleats?

Stu

[Cooper]

Nice work, not sure i'd have the patience to make all those track links so well done!

How high are your cleats?

Stu

Scale would be just shy of 5" (1/14 scale they are .35") and 2" wide. Based off a 2 foot wide track. I think this is going to be the easy part, locating and drilling holes and the 160 guides attached to them,,,,,, then tapping 320 holes!!!!! Now that is going to take some major discipline on my ADD DISORDER behalf!!!!! :jaw:

[RCP57]

Looks like you are already burnt out...posting pictures upside down!:p:p:rolleyes:

I don't envy you one bit but it will look great when you are finished! Keep cranking those handles!:cool:

[Cooper]

Ugggg!!!! Going to take a couple day break, (well I have to wait till some more stock get delivered). But I have made my brain bleed trying to find a way to make production more efficient in the ops for the links connecting the track shoes!!! Looks like making these in four steps and then hand tapping the holes leads to no shortcuts so I will have lots of cranking!!!!! And when I take a pic with the iPad oriented left pics come upside down on some forums ??? Will try and remember as it's easier for me to change than for me to change setting in a computer :)

[doodlebug]

Have you considered building some jigs for drilling and tapping holes, so that they are consistent and repeatable?????
Cheer's, Neil.

[Cooper]

Yes. One of the best purchases I make for my mill was a dro. Don't know how I did without one!!! But yes, once I get 4 or six milled out to where I know they will fit, be compatible, and line up with rollers and everything else I will be making some jigs. Probably going to just use a pin and hand rotating for the track links. Would take too much to clamp, and rotate with table. I'm always trying to find a safe more productive way to do repetition ops.

[Cooper]

Got a bunch of the small bolts, went with 2-56 size as I'm building 1/14 scale.

[Cooper]

Have about 75% of the track links! just picked up this tumbler and wanted to see what it does. (Yea, just had to put something in it and play with it!!!!!) noisy little thing, then it added some loose grit and managed to get to a acceptable level for the animals not leaving:D

[Cooper]

A start for some simple jigs to make repetitive cuts simpler.

[Cooper]

The pic, forgot to add it.

[Cooper]

And every time I get up I have to fight for my chair!!! And the work place, I know it would be easier and more accurate if I were to get a simple cad program to make up some dimensions and drawings but by the time I would teach myself how to use it I would have already made all the drawings by hand. And having the wonderful trait of my moms side of the family of no short term memory (lol!!) I would just have to retrain myself again and again anyways. :lol:

[RCP57]

Your cat is keeping you from building your Cat:confused:

Nice job on it so far! I like the little jigs too. We all have to get it done with the tools we have at hand!

[Cooper]

Got some time to play in the shop/garage so cut some more links. This is enough for one side!! Lots of time spent on these tracks but I finally got them right. I wanted to locate the hinge pins to where the track pads would be able to have some negative play. So if it were to go over a tree limb in conjunction with the rollers it would look pretty scale. (After the second mock up it was finally satisfied with location of bolts and hinge pins. ). :)

[Cooper]

A closer pic of the tracks. I still have to machine in two slots where the bolts go into the links. Only thing I'm stumped on is if I will turn down link pins from 3/16 to 1/8 edges. 1/8" to go into track links and the 3/16 for the middle to where the drive sprocket will catch. The problem I am having is in the production of them. That is just a lot of turning on the lathe!!! I might go with the idea of 1/8 pin with a spacer of o.d. 3/16 that I could loctite onto the 1/8 pin. Would save a tremendous amount of lathe time for me. They will be stainless whatever I do. Or to use 3/16 with a set screw in one of the links to keep pin in place. ?? What have any of you done??

[tracksntreadslou]

Like what you have done so far ...I guess thats why the darn things are so expensive to buy ..sometimes I wonder if its worth the trouble ..lol.Well definatley a challange thats for sure ..I have seen some with C clips ..Really I dont think your going to find an easy way out ..Set a goal to do 2 every day and work on other stuff to break up the monotany ..BTw the faster express has the 2/56 x 1/4..Just bought a 1000 and planning some new tracks for the dozer one day ..keep up the great work

[Lil Giants]

Knurled the end of the pin & then press fit into the link, adding some red locktite too.

[Cooper]

Had some time, got enough pads, links, and bolts for a whole one side, lol!! Still have to decide on the pins. For me it is just a lot of work on the lathe. Working on setting up a coolant system for the lathe, something other than a spray bottle would help.

[Cooper]

And made front and rear wheels.

[Cooper]

Well got some links put together. I decided to use 3/16 brass with ends turned down to 1/8" for the track links. After some hair pulling I decided the steel was too much / too tuff for my set up and I hate worrying about steel splinters!! And I figured brass will polish as it wears.

[Cooper]

And I wanted to design these to have enough negative play to look realistic while rolling over a log or rock.

[Cooper]

Just another pic close up, I added two holes to mimic real tracks where the bolts extend. And this also made it much easier tapping the holes. Do you guys use blue loctite on final assembly of track links?

[Cooper]

A shot of the underside. The other side track will be a lot easier now that I have the jigs and tools set up. Plus all the oh $hi@ why did I not wright that down or how did I have the machine set up?!!? As this is fun for me but sometimes I wonder why I don't just make plans:confused:

[modelman]

Cooper-nice job. I have been watching this build. These tracks will test your patience and skills. Once you get these done the rest of the build will probably seem easy. Your grousers seem a little thick to me. Are these scale? Keep at it.

[Cooper]

The tracks are scale in width, I don't have any plans to measure from except the cat dimensions cats sites. Standard stuff like height, gauge, ect,,, I did get a die cast model 1:50 scale to " look " at and somewhat reference. I did break down last week and order a shop/parts manual for a cat d11r from eBay . Hopefully I will find some good info in them. As far as thick, they probably are. This is going to be somewhat scale in appearance (I hope to at least) but is intended to be put to work on our 1:16 scale trophy truck race track at a summertime Riverlot. Soil is pretty soft. Once disturbed (tilled) it will be like playing in a sandbox. Thanks for watching, and yes the tracks are a true test into self discipline and wanting to go beat my dog!!! (Lol, love animals, as in the one pic our 9month old Dane 150lb puppy has a pretty cushy life!!!)

[steamer]

Measuring the diecast is the only method I use to get dimensions for scaling. Measure what ever part you want to produce on the diecast, multiply by 50 to bring it full scale and then divide by 14.5 to bring it to the scale your building in. Building models this way keeps the proportions roughly the same and is what I call it. ( looks right scale)
Rob

[gauthib12]

Hey Cooper,

I am building a D11 as well, your tracks look awesome! I am doing a 1:14 scale, the standard track pad on the dozer is 36" scaled is 65 mm or 2.55" wide and appx 1.07" in cross section.

[Cooper]

Hey Cooper,

I am building a D11 as well, your tracks look awesome! I am doing a 1:14 scale, the standard track pad on the dozer is 36" scaled is 65 mm or 2.55" wide and appx 1.07" in cross section.

Thanks, I think my tracks are 2" wide, 1" long and 1/2" total height. Or slightly smaller, I used 1 x 1/2 stock to mill them. For these parts that come out in the thousands I just use a round number. For the most part I'm building scale but not going to be as detailed as a couple builds I've seen. Wow hats off to those guys! The one I saw could be passed off as the real thing just shrunk!!! And this is a first build for me so getting to understand the mechanics of working parts is more of the importance to me than exacting scale. But am trying to seep it real, close :)

[Cooper]

Measuring the diecast is the only method I use to get dimensions for scaling. Measure what ever part you want to produce on the diecast, multiply by 50 to bring it full scale and then divide by 14.5 to bring it to the scale your building in. Building models this way keeps the proportions roughly the same and is what I call it. ( looks right scale)
Rob

Thanks for the input, I didn't know what others did in acquiring dimensions. So the measure, multiply and divide calipers will work just fine:)

[modelman]

Cooper-you are doing a great job on this build. Exact scale is not important to everyone. Most people do not have access to machinery to measure and photograph and the die-cast models are not 100% accurate. I always said I wanted a model that looked okay and work GREAT in the dirt. To me that is what matters. Keep up the great work!

[tracksntreadslou]

Cooper I think you are doing a awsome job on these tracks so for ..Its alot of work and not just anybody can pull it off ...looking forward to up dates

[Cooper]

Yes that is my goal, to look good but work great!!! Thank you for the encouragement and replies. Always like the input. As I don't really know what I'm doing I will try and post intentions and get feedback before I make the mistake !!! I am thinking of using acetal (plastic) for the rollers. Other choice was/is brass. I don't think the black acetal will look good but I could get yellow. Pros / cons anyone? I'm undecided on material for rollers. They are going to be straight shafts no bushings or bearings. So acetial or the brass will function on steel shafts well, right?

[Cooper]

Just a close up of the material. This isn't final cuts, just eyeballed real quick to get an idea. Boy this stuff is fun to cut!! Like butter, actually softer than butter:)

[Fired up]

Like your tracks. Do you have a cnc mill? Looking at a can router.

[Lil Giants]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%201%202011/002.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/protrker/media/Jan%201%202011/002.jpg.html)

80lbs track hoe uses acetal rollers on steel shafts without any problems.

Your build thread is likely going to be filled with hundreds of pictures, you should look at linking your photos from a photo host site sooner than later. ;)

http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=4057
Photobucket is one option, there are other sites out there too, like Flikr or Image Shack. They're all free to use, just sign up & get started.

[Cooper]

Like your tracks. Do you have a cnc mill? Looking at a can router.

No CNC, for me it's Crank, read Number, then Crank again, that's my CNC, :D

[Cooper]

Thanks lil'giant, I appreciate all your feedback. Guess it's just up to me if I want brass or acetal. I will try and get up with the photobucket rout. One more pic, I'm not a machinist, just learn from mistakes and others. This was a big piece for me to use a parting too on, my little lathe was talking pretty loudly to me and I didn't have the guts to cut it the whole way so the last 1/2" I cut with hacksaw. I got some 3 3/4" round pieces from local machine shop cheep so a lot of passes to get down to size and I don't have a band saw.

[modelman]

Cooper-I am also a "backyard machinist" self taught. I had problems with the cut-off tool until I learned how to sharpen it. If the tool is right and sitting at the correct height you should be able to go right thru that big stuff. Maybe some of the real machinist on here can help you. I think the delrin (plastic) will work just fine. In some cases it will outlast aluminum. Keep cranking!!

[RC_Dozer]

Cooper, awsome build! I really the way you designed those tracks.
I'll keep following you build closely.

[Fired up]

Wow lots of cranking I would like to pick up a small cnc router

[Espeefan]

Very impressive work, Cooper. All manually machined too. That's awesome. Love the garage. It looks like a great place to spend a day hanging out. Nicer then some people's houses, or basements, I think! Looking forward to the updates.

[Cooper]

Had some time to make the sprocket drive. I'm not sure about getting the shaft from motors to sprocket. I have to get some bearings and don't know what sizes I'll get so I just left it solid for now. But messed up the hole pattern on the first one so have to get some more stock. :(

[Cooper]

http://www.servocity.com/html/20_rpm_precision_gear_motor.html
Hey guys, got a drivetrain question. The link above is what I'm thinking for drive. One per side that will have beveled gears attached to get a 90 degree drivetrain. Rpm is 20. Should I be in a higher rpm range? And do you think these motors will be powerful enough? 1:14 scale. This is going to be a working model pushing pretty sandy soil.

[doodlebug]

http://www.servocity.com/html/20_rpm_precision_gear_motor.html
Hey guys, got a drivetrain question. The link above is what I'm thinking for drive. One per side that will have beveled gears attached to get a 90 degree drivetrain. Rpm is 20. Should I be in a higher rpm range? And do you think these motors will be powerful enough? 1:14 scale. This is going to be a working model pushing pretty sandy soil.

These are the one's that Greg used on his Cat D8, 28lbs if I remember correctly? http://www.servocity.com/html/25_rpm_offset_gearmotor.html
I bought some for my Cat D4H project.
Cheer's, Neil.

[tracksntreadslou]

Nice work so far ..big step haveing the tracks done ..speed is ok or even up to 30 rpm ..If you have the room I would go a bit bigger on the motors as your is a D11
door window motors or Princess auto has some pretty stong small ones available

[RCP57]

Be careful of the difference between stall torque and rated torque. I got burned by this last year when I ordered new motors for my EC300. I was using motors with a rated torque of 277oz and thought that ones with a stall torque of 500oz would be better. It turned out that they had way less power and were pretty much a waste of $80. When I asked Robot Shop about the different ratings I was told that the motors measured at rated torque would stall at roughly 3 times that number...I'm not sure if that is correct though. These http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/cytron-12v-17rpm-277oz-in-spur-gearmotor.html are what I use in my EC300 and 955K. They are on the slow side at 17rpm @ 12v and I am sure your sprockets will be smaller than mine slowing it further. I would recommend something faster for sure and possibly more powerful as well unless you were to up the voltage. These motors have plenty of power in the 19lb 955K but are way under powered for the 50lb excavator.

Reg

[doodlebug]

Hey Reg? So do you think 400oz in. Is big enough.
They seem to work just fine in Greg's video.
Cheers, Neil.

[RCP57]

Hey Reg? So do you think 400oz in. Is big enough.
They seem to work just fine in Greg's video.
Cheers, Neil.

Yes I would say Greg's works really well. I'm pretty sure they are 400oz rated torque which would make them around 1200oz stall torque.

[doodlebug]

Yes I would say Greg's works really well. I'm pretty sure they are 400oz rated torque which would make them around 1200oz stall torque.

Thanks! I'm working on blueprints, for next year.
Cheers, Neil.

[DADSGARAGE]

Here is another place to find some gear motors...maybe they have something that will work....I would use the biggest and strongest motors you can fit in the model !! Nice job on the build...lookin good !!!


http://www.robotcombat.com/products/motors_geared.html

[Cooper]

Finally broke down and had to measure and make a plan :(. I just couldn't do it in my head. But I have a good idea of how the build will work. Had a couple attempts at getting the right scale from the parts catalog drawlings. Not all to scale and from page to page the scale changes. It's more for reference as to where the parts go, not really made for copying to a build scale. I'll have to get in touch with cat engineers and tell them to make their parts catalog more scale rc build friendly:lol:
And haven't settled on choice of motors/ drivetrain but thank you all for the places to look, it really helps me a lot!!

[Cooper]

Merry Christmas everyone , happy holidays!! When I get back home I'll have to see what the usps, ups, and FedEx Santa Claus have left under my mailbox:)

[Cooper]

Got the bogies milled out, working on track frame next.

[Cooper]

Looks so cool in the unfinished state.

[RCP57]

Wow! Beautiful job! Looks like it is "cat" approved too...

[Espeefan]

The bogies and rollers look great! Keep the updates coming.

[modelman]

Cooper-you are making good progress and it looks really good. I notice that the track pads are real close together and it looks good but are you worried that dirt may get in between the tracks and cause binding? Just curious.. Keep up the good work.

[Cooper]

Model man, I hope not, well I really don't know as this is my first build and experience with construction equipment. There is some space I between pads. I wrestled with that for a while and realized the full size dozers have a similar overlap in the direction of forward projection, (when the cleats fowl with dirt the links and overlap help seal the gap by the direction of overlap). As the majority of time the cleats will be gripping while pushing a load forward, or pulling something. Not going in reverse, that's why tracks are directional. Guess it's just the better of the two. So I just went with the same idea but did try and keep the spaceing to a minimum, as my thought was to try and keep the larger stuff from not getting in. But like I said, I don't know, but boy will I be unhappy to make tracks again!!! Lol!!! They are a lot of time, more of a pain being the repetitive work.

[DADSGARAGE]

Nicely done!!!
Looking forward to seeing more...keep up the great work!!!

[Cooper]

Thank you guys, appreciate the feedback, so far I have made slight measurement changes just for ease of machining the parts. I don't think it will look out of place. I didn't realize that some of the cat specs are artists renditions and not always to scale, and I've been taking pictures of d9's. As the cat dealer just up the road from me hardly ever has any d11's sitting around. Too big and expensive for transport. With a price tag of 1.5-2 mill I'm sure they factor in some sort of site build cost. ? Anyway, I've started on rear wheel/bogie carrier. I know its a lot to mill out of one piece but I've got more time than $ and brains:). And then I don't have to line up bolt holes :).

[Cooper]

The carrage and wheel suspension in making. The stock I had on hand was just about 1/4 " shy of the right height so if it looks not as tall that's why. I may bolt on something when it comes time for the top track carrier.

[Cooper]

Got the main bulk of the suspension done for the wheels.

[Cooper]

From the previous picture this is how much movement I'm planning. When the sharp edges are smoothed and final fit it will have a little more in the main wheel and a bit more for the bogies, to the best guesstimate of mine I figured this is enough movement. What do you all think? If too much I can install rubber blocks between parts and limit movement. As I planned on using a thin piece for shock suppression of metal on metal. Now that I said that out loud I kinda realize at this level (scale) I don't think aluminum hitting aluminum from 1/4" away is going to hurt anything :).

[Cooper]

:) happy, happy, joy, joy!!! Got motors, sprockets, and chain today!!! These will definitely be strong enough, I think!?! The motors @ 12volts spin 116rpm, I'm planning on gearing down to 40rpm, at least that's where I'm going to be with the sprockets I got. I may change gearing to try and get down to 30rpm. I can also limit with radio too. It would have been nice to just have direct drive to the drive sprocket but running motors at that lower input voltage would be hard on em. Haven't found the best fit, configuration, of motors but just sitting there I may stager them like in the pic. I think I still will have enough room above them for hydraulics , battery (lipo) and controller (thinking saber tooth ) under the hood and drivers area. As I wasn't planning on detailed cab but lightly smoked glass so all that space can be utilized for electronics ect.

[motocrawler]

Could you tell me where you got the motors and chain from? Thanks!

[Cooper]

Motors and chain, sprockets too. I didn't shop around for price that much. I don't know if that was a good buy or not. Didn't look too bad I thought. http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-218-1003.html
And thanks for the complements. I knew going into this a lot of work lay ahead. I didn't realize how much the detail work would involve. But it's fun-at least the tracks were fun,,, for about the first 5, then it got boaring.

[Cooper]

Ok so now I know some things should be kept scale and some things can be cheated on. As I said before the stock I had on hand was about a 1/4" not tall enough for the main track carrier. And I skimped on the brass for the rollers. Between the two it really shows when both come together. :(. As you can see a lot of daylight between the two. If I had the rollers 1-1/8" and had the track body extend down another 1/4" things would be looking a lot better. I do have room to make the rollers a 1/8" on each side increasing diameter 1/4" for future tweaks. (Might even make them with the acetal instead of dropping the coin on the brass). As I said before this is my first build in something like this and a bit on the learning curve. I'm just not too efficient in guesstimating scale realism for purchasing stock. Once it affects the wallet I learn real quick!!!! Lol!! (Don't we all?) on the flip side the dozer blade arms will hide it all,, lol,,,,

[modelman]

Cooper-since you are not building a scale model, don't worry about the small details. If you hadn't mentioned the small rollers I probably wouldn't have noticed. I think the grousers (being thick and tall) looks worse than the small rollers. But that's just me. Everyone has an opinion. Make the model to please YOU. Since you will spend hundreds of hours over this model you will know every little mistake that is made. Most people won't notice. I always said to look at a machine from a side-view and pick out a few features that stand out and try to make the model accurate to these features and you will have a good looking model. But remember, a model that looks great but doesn't work is useless. Try to make something that looks good but works GREAT!! You are doing good, keep at it.

[Cooper]

Hey model man, thanks for the input. I agree with you about the final outcome to be a workhorse not a showpiece. What I'll be happy with in the end is if someone can just recognize it as being a larger d series cat dozer. If I can accomplish a realism to a d11 by say someone like my wife I'm right where I want to be!! (Although I would show her a pic of a d11 and a d3 :) , hopefully she sees it!!!! But yes I'm striving for a workhorse. Going to be used to build and maintain our 1/14 scale short course trophy truck racetrack in between races. Down at our Riverlot it started out as me and the neighbor playing in the sand by river-- that morphed into about 10 of us having several races per weekend and a full racetrack with guide rails, berms, jumps, seating for spectators, watering system,,ect,,,, as I look back I'm starting to realize my addiction,, ahh still in denial!!! Lol!!!

So you think the grousers look big? For me it's like the signature of a beast, thick and tall, big looking tracks. I think that comes from all the used equipment I've had and always wanting the new stuff but not being able to justify the $200k for new. I may trim the height down some but it's mainly going to be used in sandy/silty soil. And if anything looks like I'm heading in the wrong direction I'm always listening :)

[modelman]

Cooper-your grousers may be okay. That is just the 1st. thing my eyes focus on when looking at your tracks. Right or wrong-I don't have a clue. I have never even seen a D11 in person. I just know they are HUGE!! As I said-build it like you want it and keep cranking out those parts.:D

[modelman]

Cooper-I don't want to get your thread off topic but you talking about the r/c car track got me going for a trip down memory lane. Here is a track I built behind my house in about 1995. We formed a club and started having races once a month with 25-30 trucks coming every race. We would also have about 10 trucks every weekend to practice and play.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn216/modelman/Dyno/9a590560-934a-4ae0-b671-5ba544a368ac_zps6fdbd471.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn216/modelman/Dyno/3a36bf03-762e-4250-89f9-9c74c82945be_zpsaec12898.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn216/modelman/Dyno/410bf263-4ef2-421c-befe-f8294cd48be3_zps2966b541.jpg
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn216/modelman/Dyno/88d043be-25d8-464d-825a-36a3f8f471ef_zps4b071d51.jpg
If your track is close to this size you will need more than the D11 to maintain it. I used a cub cadet pulling a section harrow and a railroad cross-tie for leveling and a tiller to re-mix the dirt about once a month. It was fun but it was almost a full time job to keep the track in good shape. I would do it all again though because of the good memories.

[Cooper]

That's an awesome backyard track!!! This is the only pick I could find off hand, the track has grown and been modified since but at least you get an idea. It's for 1:14 scale trucks.

[Cooper]

A little better pic, and in my opinion a good build thread covers all aspects, like where the equipment is going to be working :lol:

[Cooper]

Oops

[modelman]

Thanks for the comments-sorry I don't have a picture showing the entire track but you can get an idea of the size. Your track looks to be well kept and I can't help but notice the lake. I was thinking the way some people drove on my track that if they were on your track they would have surely wound up in the water. :eek: Your D11 should be right at home there.

[Cooper]

Got some more done, i still have to machine in the details and round stuff but this gives an idea of the torsion bar.

[Cooper]

Oops, darn iPad!!

[Cooper]

Just a side shot, will start on the sprocket drive mounting and location.

[modelman]

Looking better with each picture!!

[DADSGARAGE]

Sweet...great job!!!

[JAMMER]

Hi you are doing a great job look real good so far keep it up. Ed

[Cooper]

Got photobucket working
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cat%20dozer/0c7d8a46dcaad678d06fe30272c27196_zps957cf699.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cat%20dozer/83375471a197c16ce66213fbd735d556_zpsda607ad8.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cat%20dozer/31458a2c4cccb0d44bd73d7fef446b83_zpsbf32995b.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cat%20dozer/31458a2c4cccb0d44bd73d7fef446b83_zpsbf32995b.jpg

[Cooper]

Still trying to figure out what to copy/paste

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cat%20dozer/31458a2c4cccb0d44bd73d7fef446b83_zpsbf32995b.jpg

[Cooper]

Ok, got it figured out, img code. Lil'giant , finally got it figured out, should be hosting photos from now on. I'm technologically challenged when it comes to iPads, computers. And to think I'm the IT guy at work!!!! Lol!!! Small family business, but I do get employee of the month a couple times a year!!!!lol!!!! (Only have three on payroll, wife mom and me. ). :)

[Lil Giants]

Much better to see your handy work Cooper! :cool:

I aint no puter scholar either, I spent several hrs over a couple wks trying to get my latest printer/scanner to talk wireless with my laptop, ran it out of ink in a couple hrs with all the PDF's that had back up in that time, now I got to track down more ink cartridges... and I just got my 1st smartphone a few days ago, trying to figure out how to do more with it than just make a phone call. Technology forever changing...

[doodlebug]

So what kind of dumb phone did you buy?
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/596a3d95ea30dfadafc45585c7d16082_zps01d4ae20.jpg
Got these motors with a reduction gearbox. These were the alternative to the other bigger higher speed 116rpm motors that would require gearing down. Just got them in mail today and I believe these will be better suited. Will still have to install them off set but direct drive, not having to mess with chain and sprockets.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/1a29b5915a432068ce6e5e45b89211f6_zps66d2abb2.jpg
I pulled the gearboxes apart so I can make new shafts to suit my needs. I'm planning on using a locking pin in the 1/2" shaft with a flange nut on the end to secure the sprocket drive. Bronze bearing in the motor housing but what can I expect for fairly inexpensive motors with gearboxes. The rpm is 23 or 30 I forget without looking but think 23 will be fine. Right??? Not planning on full speed travel often and I always like to keep things like this slow and sturdy.

[Cooper]

Hey thanks thuangs, no CNC, just hand cranking. A small mill and small lathe.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ada97145dd60e720f5c67c0bdb8b6c43_zpsc20bc078.jpg
And just got a 30" brake and shear to possibly do some of the flat metal stuff. :)
Hopefully these motors hold up. I'm still modifying the other motors I got just in case these don't work.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/261889f812f5a7352e5d69f884d85b62_zpsf391c5ef.jpg
Set in the hubs or whatever they are, to keep some distance from tracks.

[Cooper]

Hi Cooper, thanks for reply! Sorry, I mean the small mill and small lathe shown in the photo...if you can pm me the brand, that will be very helpful. I've been thinking to buy a good set like yours. It's quite hard to do jobs without right tools.;)

your doggy is very cute...I have ragdoll cats. :)

Best regards,
Kevin
These are the two pieces I have. If. I were to get another lathe I would try and get one with a variable speed function. Wouldn't have to change belts in between different operations.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/27023431576c4dfd48c6b87865afa53b_zps4226545a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d606172a3b6227530bf1f827e61f8186_zpsc59c0b8f.jpg
This lathe was the combo unit, I removed the milling attachment when I got the other mill.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/59d63d88a07bf5124df07a1752f1cfc3_zpsd2881b24.jpg
And this is the mill I have. Most of my stuff comes from grizzley. I'm about 15 min from the Pennsylvania distribution/show room store. So by not paying for shipping on heavy stuff it is a good purchase for me. Plus if anything breaks I can just drive up and get stuff. One of the best things I purchased was the digital read out for the mill. I'm working on getting one for the lathe, but I have been using a small mag scale for the main lathe operation.

[modelman]

Cooper-dozer is coming along nicely. You mentioned the bushings in the gear-motors. I think you will find that the bushings work better in the dirt than bearings. Dirt getting into bearings is a problem.

[JAMMER]

You got a nice start there. I to have the Grizzly GO704 mill but mine is cnc and I also have the Grizzly GO602 lathe that is cnc well almost I got all the parts to do it just as soon as it warms up it to cold in the garage. Keep up the good work. Ed

[9W Monighan]

This is shaping up nicely. You will have to bring it down to York in April to show off your progress.

[Cooper]

This is shaping up nicely. You will have to bring it down to York in April to show off your progress.

What and where in April?

[JAMMER]

York PA the fair grounds and it called Cabin Fever. Great time and they have an auction and a lot of nice things to buy. You can go on line Cabin Fever.com and see the dates. Ed

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/74c98bf8af886679a26717665054b5e1_zpsc7e44694.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/32500e09f9f4b64edcdf79dee564bedc_zpscfea69cf.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/caa9632634a32ffa3cee9c6d2503508c_zps59a12dbf.jpg
Well I got talked into going with the wiper motors. More work to install them but they should be able to do a way better job. I got the gearing down to 37rpm with chain and sprockets. They are big! But if I recall someone said for a dozer put the biggest most powerful motors in it you can. Sounds good to me!!

[doodlebug]

Looking good!
Cheers, Neil.

[DADSGARAGE]

Excellent work on the dozer....looks great!!!

I used that type of motor in my D11 dozer and they work well for this type of application....one thing to watch,the little grey bushing (looks like a socket head set screw on the end of the motor output shaft) will be the first thing to wear out.... it acts as the bushing for the worm shaft as well as a way to adjust the end play, it is put in at the factory with lock tite and is impossible to get out without damaging it, if and when it wears out make a replacement from brass or bronze...the grey bushing will last a long long time....but if the motor starts making a strange noise it will most likely be from it being worn out.

Keep up the nice work!!!

KP

[Cooper]

This is just a somewhat protective cover for the sprocket, and it supports the shafts bearing on the final drive sprocket. I'm trying to make this beefy and not sure of what's to come in the future. That's why I've left some of the parts unfinished as I might need some for something els.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e522154cc19d68676d1930cf1b266f33_zps3a3e3102.jpg
Too bad my stupid cat doesn't like it!! He doesn't know but I'm going to run his little puffy tail over!!!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/bbb33a861a26b96a2448716c06fe0eb9_zps3cff09f6.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/f61cb2628e51e1e91440ec2f933c5a78_zpse9cccd14.jpg
Boy what a P.I.T.A. getting the tracks bolted together. I made a master link similar to cats but I may switch to just a pin. And I need to remove one link. It was very hard for me to precisely measure for how many links and what tension spring, length of track carrage so I just ended up with what it is. Can remove a link and remove some material on carriage if needed. I would like to have as little of the track tensioner shaft out as possible.

[doodlebug]

Like the kitty picture! LOL! Looking good :D:D:D
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

Hey Neil, the kitty is my shop apprentice. Lol!!! Don't know why but it would sit on my lap while running any milling op, even the shop vac!!! Until the hose finds his tail!!! :).

Anyway, I'm starting into the driveline. I'm not too experienced with chain drives but I am going to incorporate some sort of mechanical tensioner. Also for the way this is set up to get the chain clearance of the motor mounting legs a idler/tensioner will have to be installed.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/66c786d1563770af34f43aa921a978ef_zps897375b5.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cac9f72caf5aaf70bb1b40972aa49883_zps27b94677.jpg
Hope ya all don't mind, I like lots of pics, love to see what you all have tackled and the process of it. Always a learning curve for me as I've learned a lot in a short time by following several builds from this site!!!

[Cooper]

Oh and what a disappointment of the Super Bowl. Go hawks, wife's from sattle. Would have like to had a lot more challenge.

[Lmackattack]

Love how this build is coming along...those wiper motors should be pretty good and strong...if you geared them down from stock it should be a torque monster!

[Cooper]

They should be running at 37 rpm at full throttle. And I have a saber tooth ??amp duel controller. Going to be using a turnigy/ fly sky 9 channel radio. I forget what amp the esc is off hand but I know I have lots of headroom in the amps dep. the radio, electronics I will be needing lots of help setting that one up. But I do want to incorporate the left/right blade tilt function.

[Lmackattack]

I have seen timing chain tensioners used that simply apply pressure on the chain with the use of a slippery plastic. However you may need to use a threaded rod on that idler gear as you won't have a constant source of lubrication. Maybe a hydrolic type tensioner pushing on the idle gear bracket?

[Cooper]

I was trying to think of something that would complicate such a simple idea. :) lol,,,, I do like your idea of some sort of hydraulic tensioner. Thank you for the idea, but for my Lego mind storming I'm just going off that idea and thinking of something like an idler sprocket or just a simple wheel (wheel would probably be better) on a spring loaded shaft. The spring would keep some tension on it but the shaft would stop it from giving too much. As tension would reverse from one direction to the other. Like a double pulley on a shaft with a mount in the middle, keeps tension but limits travel. Yea,yea,yea,, it sounds complicated but is quite simple with one moving part.

[Lmackattack]

Yep that would be basicly the same principal but use of a spring instead of hydroloc.

Also depending how you mount the wiper motors. You possible could incorporate a jack screw to adjust the motor to pull the chain taught... Kinda like a motorcycle rear wheel is adjusted to take up slack...

Ok not my build...I'll shut up now! ;). LOL

[doodlebug]

Don't forget about half links for adjustment!
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

Don't forget about half links for adjustment!
Cheers, Neil.

I forget but think its #25 chain?? Small stuff from robot marketplace. I'll have to look into 1/2 links if need.

[Cooper]

I'm not a machinist , just learning. But for you that are I didn't want to spend $ for a insert grooving tool (and don't like to wait for mail )that I don't think I will use much. I did a little research and tried to grind one out. It's a hss blank and I have the end just a touch wider. Will it be ok to use it with the top staying flat? Many set it a touch below center? Planning on using it on some 1/2" stuff. Only a groove deep enough for retaining clips.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5350fa5b0a82b066462ce05cc7f718fc_zps718c0c31.jpg
And got the motor mounted, will be counter sinking bolts or using button head.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8634aa2c4eacad9bf1c9de2187c011c1_zpse310892d.jpg

[ihbuilder]

You should be fine if you have a small relief on the bottom too . I've cut 100's of grooves with home ground grooving tools . If you need any help come down to the shop anytime , I'm about an hr south of Williamsport .

[Cooper]

You should be fine if you have a small relief on the bottom too . I've cut 100's of grooves with home ground grooving tools . If you need any help come down to the shop anytime , I'm about an hr south of Williamsport .

Thank you for the invite, might have to look you up, or keep me in mind to notify of any shows, clubs, pertaining to rc trucks, equipment in our area. Closest rc to me is hidden hanger, takes me about 45min. I live about 10min south of Williamsport.

[Cooper]

Got some time between shoveling snow to get the motors mounted. I have to shave about 1/32 off each motor gear housing to get them to fit. They look big in there, i don't think this will be underpowered as the weight go on.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2e62c245bfbdab66e828d7379e80bdb0_zps6443cbbf.jpg

[JAMMER]

You have done an excellent job so far keep up the good work. Ed

[AlexBK]

Very nice! Cant wait to see more!

[dirtpusher9]

Very neat a clean job. Should be very quiet. Keep the pics coming.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/06fc3eb20e8380353c07fa033488463f_zps5b6a7080.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8168499190ec9797c151612d2588646a_zps3f3fe4d9.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/27b1f2692591db7935331d8d73500c67_zps52cdac6f.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/03d8123097abe4164371a061948689d9_zps56e743df.jpg

[Cooper]

Yes, also the cab, I want to be able to push dirt this summer. I'm not planning on doing an interior. Going to just use smoked glass for the cab. So all the cab room will be able to house electronics ect. Possibly in another build I will be willing to tackle the small details of interior operators compartment but for now I've got my hands full on just the mechanical workings. :)

[9W Monighan]

I'm interested in seeing how those motors hold up in heavy pushing. I see those on evilbbay. sure hope you can make it down to York in April to display your "work in progress"
we have an outdoor show at the Brownsvville,PA twice a year where I set up a pile of dirt to work off in may and August.

[ihbuilder]

Looks good , will you have it pushing for cabin fever expo in April ? That's the closest show to me in York ,an hr and 15 min south of me . I'm going to try to get to the national pike shows in Brownsville , pa this year . All dirt shows for us :D

[RCP57]

Wow! Awesome job:jaw:. Keep up the momentum!

[doodlebug]

Its taking shape now, looking good!
Cheers, Neil.

[JAMMER]

Very nice work and you are moving right along with this project. Ed

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cd0d62cbfa39c85e4fc85913b617245c_zpsce73a8fa.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d9e53edfff14291af1e1af3f5e98ac68_zps90f3f83a.jpg
Don't ya hate it when you are all proud and excited that a plan comes together just to realize you $&@##% up??? Lol,,, the 4 holes in the pusher arms were not planned to show, measured and drilled/ countersunk bolts from other side. But forgot I had to take off material from the front side!!! Oh well maybe a little bondo when paint time comes. Going to start work on the blade and front radiator hood.

[Fired up]

Looks very good can wait to see it in the dirt.

[doodlebug]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cd0d62cbfa39c85e4fc85913b617245c_zpsce73a8fa.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d9e53edfff14291af1e1af3f5e98ac68_zps90f3f83a.jpg
Don't ya hate it when you are all proud and excited that a plan comes together just to realize you $&@##% up??? Lol,,, the 4 holes in the pusher arms were not planned to show, measured and drilled/ countersunk bolts from other side. But forgot I had to take off material from the front side!!! Oh well maybe a little bondo when paint time comes. Going to start work on the blade and front radiator hood.

Don't sweat the little stuff! Its still an outstanding model:D:D:D
Cheer's, Neil.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/997ee1c9eba7b63b8e26dc65cddf8d08_zps53fdc51a.jpg
Starting on the blade. It would be so nice to make a straight pusher blade, I could just stick sides on and be done. But,,,,, I've got no experience in metal fabrication, so what fun would that be:). These are the first two pieces of metal I have ever sheared or rolled. I'm planning on making the carry/dump blade with cutting edges. I don't think I'm going to get too detailed with all the bends but would like to make the ends somewhat realistic. My welding skills are,,,well we will have to see if I post any of them. :). Lol!!! I weld like an old hit n miss engin, sometimes good and sometimes bad in the same bead.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6c4ae4097199330f7b5b86362819db18_zps7cdb5742.jpg
I originally was using hard rubber grommets for the degree of movement in the blade arms. Had to go to hardware store this morning and found they have rod ends. I cut off the threads and ground to close to round then pressed them into the hole. They will definitely not be coming out. But now I have a nearly indestructible pivot point. And got some for the stabilizer bar too.

[Cooper]

Don't sweat the little stuff! Its still an outstanding model:D:D:D
Cheer's, Neil.

Thanks, yea, by the time I'm done,,,,,,I'm sure I will be seeing a lot of places wher the camera doesn't take pics:).

Damm,,, got to go plow more snow!!!!! I was born in Florida and need to get back to the sand and sun:rolleyes:

[Cooper]

Looks good , will you have it pushing for cabin fever expo in April ? That's the closest show to me in York ,an hr and 15 min south of me . I'm going to try to get to the national pike shows in Brownsville , pa this year . All dirt shows for us :D
When and where, I would like very much to go. Cabin fever in Harrisburg? Let me know, thanks.

[9W Monighan]

When and where, I would like very much to go. Cabin fever in Harrisburg? Let me know, thanks.

Here is the link. I am looking forward to seeing you there.
http://www.cabinfeverexpo.com/index.html

[ihbuilder]

When and where, I would like very much to go. Cabin fever in Harrisburg? Let me know, thanks.

edit : Steve beat me to it

[doodlebug]

Just cut the sides of your blade out of poster board, to find the right shape, then you will have templates to make the rest of your blade.
Cheers, Neil.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e5d04823259d6a690fc3886271d2830b_zpsfeb56b56.jpg
Figured I need to have some sort of internal support. Using 22guage steel. I figure I can weld onto the blade then together with a couple holes in the back plate. Then I will be able to have a few spots welded to the back as well. Will be able to hide them easily too.

Yes I will be doing that Neil, using the cardboard sheet for perishable templates will make things a lot easier for my right angle mind. Always have fits when installing cove moulding on slanted ceilings around corners!!!!

And I will definitely be trying to make some time for any shows in or around my area.

[Lil Giants]

And I will definitely be trying to make some time for any shows in or around my area.

There is a lot of them in your area throughout the yr, you are blessed! :)

[doodlebug]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e5d04823259d6a690fc3886271d2830b_zpsfeb56b56.jpg
Figured I need to have some sort of internal support. Using 22guage steel. I figure I can weld onto the blade then together with a couple holes in the back plate. Then I will be able to have a few spots welded to the back as well. Will be able to hide them easily too.

Yes I will be doing that Neil, using the cardboard sheet for perishable templates will make things a lot easier for my right angle mind. Always have fits when installing cove moulding on slanted ceilings around corners!!!!

And I will definitely be trying to make some time for any shows in or around my area.

Cool! you're ahead of me :D
Cheers, Neil.

[JAMMER]

Cabin Fever is in York PA not Harrisburg just thought I'd let you know. Ed

[Cooper]

Just remember , what you are about to see is from a professional metal welder/fabricator. Reality------my welding skills are a work in progress,,, first time welding on such thin material!! I have to trim the sides and build rock guard, cutting edges, mounting brackets but the big idea is done. Well it's definitely a carry blade.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9fb60a0872919709617d29f9167f4fb8_zpse7da2b84.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/879b19682d1eac6434240f79459c826a_zpsbf3683f3.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/fa231dcf36f287e3ee6a66086098ceac_zps6d2aeb65.jpg
I did get the internal bracing in and it really stiffened it up!!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8f96140a025aaa7053b235b9db1a9a59_zps3f60d51b.jpg
I added a small strip of steel so I will have something to bolt cutting edges to.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/36a8b84360306bedc77b38958d50bafe_zpsa7070b95.jpg

[Cooper]

And the bottom side
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/20e5a19a0e0528479c167080d3aa847b_zpsed0ce353.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/102fe008833a78edd3636f01de78df7a_zps1d502355.jpg
Topside with tractor
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/27bb5563cf13ae500ccc475019878587_zps53a96608.jpg

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2f16e2c19822057b494327a74abf4f02_zps7b6c1781.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6dfc655cb6ef80d00215d2a8b765ca4a_zps293b5396.jpg

[Cooper]

Oh forgot two, and can anyone say bondo??? Lol. :)

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/642babbe102f90a28f37b0a9b79c61df_zps31547b09.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/eae3fbbd241ecfc73ff4f6b012ad612f_zps8d3f49de.jpg
Got cutting edge and side edges on. I was going to have a scale bolt on cutting edge, but I decided to save some time and skip that. Now I have to grind welds down and have some automotive metal filler. I guess its like bondo but a little stronger? Maybe it's just a half gallon bucket do jb weld. Lol!! This should be able to have the final outcome pretty smooth and straight, I hope.

[Fired up]

Looking good. Keep up the great work

[Espeefan]

Boy, you first build guys really know how to show even the veterans up! The Cat D11 is looking very nice, and you are making excellent progress. Keep it up. I never get tired of watching builds like yours come together.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/05ccc22ffbc187fa024e3d4fe65692b8_zps73a42d02.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/68955bce1ba05a45c6d034ae9d51471a_zpsdc702fea.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5dcfbd20ac8b0b43809c073d9d51b839_zps61f83d1d.jpg
So far this little piece has given me the most fits!!!! I'm not an engineer so I figure the mechanics of real machinery is working so use similar. I made this pivot block to where only one set screw will be needed and will be hidden. Gonna have to start thinking about hydros. Where do you guys get your bushings/ seals for piston rods and what size hose and fittings should I be getting? 1:14 scale.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/31816bab40b4113a3afd931eb9c76756_zpsc34136f6.jpg
Definitely have enough tilt!!!!
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ce11ce7d1b1cb3c4bb265d0387d3f54b_zpsc697acc8.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4e7b16be1c2e15e30eb16caf60d0d5a5_zps99ab1c44.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/f619a461f623fd527c07783bd328b931_zps0e2af6be.jpg
That's how far movement can happen before anything touches. I don't know how much tilt d11s have, maybe 15~20 degrees?? Going to start working on stabilizer arms

[Cooper]

Boy, you first build guys really know how to show even the veterans up! The Cat D11 is looking very nice, and you are making excellent progress. Keep it up. I never get tired of watching builds like yours come together.

Thank you, I've been blessed with some time to devote to this during the winter so I'm trying to get it together in the time I have. And I really enjoy seeing what others do, love the pics myself, so I try and take as many as I can. Hope it's not too many :)

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7f4f7534573ba76b6b64ddfd69f54ae1_zps4a93ce82.jpg

[od jhon deer]

Looking good so far I was just wondering what u used for track I did not notice if u said also did u get plans for it r just doing out of your head but keep it up

[Cooper]

Looking good so far I was just wondering what u used for track I did not notice if u said also did u get plans for it r just doing out of your head but keep it up

For the track pads I used 1/2 x 1" bar. For the links I (think) I used 3/8 x 5/8 and used a slitting saw to cut them in half for individual pieces. I'll try and get some pics of the stuff I used and how. As far as plans, yup all in my head:eek: after numerous times forgetting measurements I started writhing simple part sketches down for my lack of memory. I did get a cat parts/shop manual. The problem with the manual is you just get some non scale drawings but at least it's something to scale off of. And a bunch of pics of dozers from the web. I am trying to build a d11 but it has some blend of d9 also. A local cat dozer dealer is about three miles from home so I could see some machines firsthand. But they never get a d11 sitting around that is assembled. Too big and expensive, they usually go right to the job site.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5013aa18323bc9860c2bec17fd34556e_zps5025d71c.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/1053fcfa76277e04eb1f1d576e3ab37c_zpse7ffa245.jpg
Added a little of the detail.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d6da258c4b050c1497851c90f310fab2_zps79fbcb07.jpg
Work on the side of the engine compartment and trying to blend into the front. Wanted to make the front sides a bit beefy for the blade hydraulics to attach to. Not sure how I'm going to accomplish that part, it's like cast into the side. Might mill a slot into,,,,well when I get there I'll be straining the brain again :)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2fb9b96b963870a4380b9fa2e7adf8a7_zps43533ab6.jpg
I did re-do the roller wheels. Same internal size but made to look bigger. I think it make a big difference in appearance.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e5250ca247e6399516ade5b837fcdcb8_zps8fafeb94.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/628c7fdbeace6a63348e99a7be107aeb_zpsb689d4da.jpg
Working on the skid plate for front. Hats off to you metal workers!! Seems simple and easy but trying to transfer measurements from paper template to the actual metal shape is a bit of luck for me. Some minor tweeting but it will fit. I'm going to be bolting it to frame. Originally I was going to wrap it up the sides like the 1:1 dozers but a bit too complex for me:)

[Lil Giants]

You did a fine job yourself. :cool:

What gauge is that?

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b203cff48871e02dfc1cf54bc29e01ef_zpsce2f87a7.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4a28942df5115968dabc44dbe32e571b_zps10b3dcf1.jpg
A couple more in process,,,,

Lil giant, I'm working with 22guage, thin enough to burn through during welding very easy and thick enough to not be able to use hand shears. Just the right size to make it hard to work with (for me:).

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2ecdf1e3dd833554f5e350e6c41cc8d1_zps1d2f4ae5.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/af019803fc2ecf8b162b6181174f485d_zpsa8cc81cf.jpg
I think I'll have the skid plates done by weekend. Have to weld two pieces yet. But this is what I've come up with so far. I have a 2-56 broken tap in one of those holes and I over tightened a brass 2-56 screw trying to get the metal to lay a little more flat and twisted the head off. More work!! I'm going to mill out the tap and drill out the brass then I'm going to try that aluma-weld stuff. If that does the job I'll be able to re drill and tap new holes. It just adds more time and the p.i.t.a. Aspect. :). Have some materials for hydraulics coming later in week, so I guess I'll be needing to get valves and pump soon. I think the pump and valves will be the bullet-biting expense. Once I get my fingers on one I'll try and make my own for other projects.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/95964ac88fb4a2dc374c8a92ae308378_zps2a9dbc3d.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6eb93ce991ad9ddbdc638955d1cb7760_zps3a1aa8bc.jpg
Figured I will need to have rotational movement if I plan to have a tilting blade. I will be using stainless with a setscrew as a retainer for the pivot shaft.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6d5475c407b4d8bc1c6a054bb52bd364_zps3f0713c1.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b40fbe8207980b4652730b5715502e13_zps1ae411ba.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/06704c1e29c88eaa56aa54481562bb6b_zps830b2126.jpg
Here's one for you lil'giants, I saw you recently got a "smart" phone ,, lol, actually once I figured out how to make a simple call all was good. There are some very useful apps, this one comes in handy a lot!! And it is surprisingly accurate. More than I can use a sight level. But it did take me an hour or so trying to figure out how to switch all the views :)

[Cooper]

I figured this was the easiest way for a chain adjuster/tensioner. It's simply a idler, a flanged bearing, with an offset center that I can set the free play. As I didn't think a spring tensioner would work on account of both forward and reverse tension applies. In the pic you can see by the first one the top chain is curved. And the bottom pic with the tensioner adjusted the top chain is straight from sprocket to sprocket, and that is forward rotation to where more pressure (should) be applied by pushing a load.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/14fdd4cb2ab5732a8596f5ca24cfa994_zps92831b5a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3a6e4b5d80ab1a51fe04cbd119a4eccb_zps9c24b656.jpg


And a pic of the part, I'll be using a tooth washer for some more security of keeping it in position.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/bff452d1cb8bde085c66380ce4eedb45_zps1b1c931b.jpg

[Cooper]

And if I show the good I guess I have to show the bad. I broke a 2-56 tap off in one hole and spun the head off a brass 2-56 bolt. So I decided to mill out the broken and use that aluminum weld stick stuff. I watched some tube videos and tried it. Well the vids make it look fast, I heated and heated with mapp gas. Well I just missed that magical temp as by the time I was done fixing the holes I had a big drooping bulge of liquid aluminum on the bottom. Well once I learned how to use it the second part was pretty easy. That stuff comes in handy. But now even though I was using it to fix a part and save some machine time by not having to remake the part I think I will anyway.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2dbdebdbd43bb9f9ea8a3aa9e027a280_zps7003d1a5.jpg
First try.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/45cdfb86653e3baa9d438c0b0f3b9903_zpsfdb72e62.jpg

Second part, top hole was the one remade.

[Lil Giants]

Thank you Cooper for the tip on the phone app, I'll look at doing the same for my phone too. ;)

And the set up pics of machined parts, I'd be interested in seeing more of them too. My knowledge of machining & how to do it safe & accurately is very limited. I've just got a mini mill right now in my house, never did anything too complicated with it b/c of its lack of rigidity. But my soon to be finished garage will be getting a bigger one this fall, probably one like yours & I'll look forward to do more of my own machining. And tips on accessories you use during your build would be a plus as well, plz. ;)

[Cooper]

Will include some more of the machining pics. I can't say I know what I'm doing as these are scratch builds from air plans but I always figure there is a way for something to be done. Ya know that old saying if there's a will there's a way, well s few scrap parts and some broken tools later , yes there is. Lol,,,,

Have some more work to do but a pic of the skid plates. One front and one back. Both bolted on. I had to file a housing support on the motor gear housing down some but other than that it a pretty snug fit. At least keeping some debris out.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/81146a11eb0c9f204a600378f6ab7464_zps18ca4789.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ab8d76915d7e2fb0730fb1bff2bef214_zpsf2e6af7f.jpg

And a side shot, starting to figure out operator housing and stabilizer bar.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/32799b564047aeb0696503f9a119c93b_zps216e96b3.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d42e6df3631d7ae0f66f08c8cfa7c2c6_zps0b61f3d4.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7953a8e08344694acb0f50f046a191af_zps7625dafe.jpg

[Azonic]

Nice work!

Where will the hydraulics fit?? lol!

[titandigs]

Hey Cooper,
What's the name of the APP? I downloaded tilt meter but it's different to your screen shot.
Thanks

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ce25e488ccee83d8670fb0124d16c440_zps0c0337f6.jpg

I'm using an iphone5 and new iPad for these apps. Cliinometer is the name of the app. I've compared it to other levels and it has been more accurate than any sight level I've used.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/526797822c91859f7ac234044798e687_zpsb543f2a1.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/26f7851ad3647e3ba37c2eac49dfa3c8_zps56cf6050.jpg

It was dark so just the screen is visible not the phone or couch it was on. :). And there is a couple machinist apps. But the only thing I find useful is wire size and drill size decimals or tap drill sizes. I don't use any of the feed or speed guides as I just feed and cut by feel and sight.

[Cooper]

Nice work!

Where will the hydraulics fit?? lol!
Lol, yes the motors fill up quite a bit of space. I might be thankful that I'm making a blacked out cab, I may need that area for electronics. In a serious note I have not handled any of these pumps or valve blocks but by seeing them on the forum and for sale sites I do think things will be crowded. 5 valves (independent tilt cylinders) sabertooth esc, (forget but about 4" wide) lipo batteries, sound module , speaker, thinking about a computer fan in front grill for added cooling, and hydro pump with motor attached.
After reading what I just wrote it does sound like it will be crowded!! I think its time to order pump and valves before placement of those parts. Might be a bit of puzzle. :).

[ihbuilder]

How much space do you have in front of the motors ? It looks like you may be able to put the jung set up Fumotec uses . This is where I placed mine on my TD 40 and plan to put a fan on the back side of the pump motor (outrunner )

[Cooper]

I'm thinking I'll have plenty of room now that I started on the body work.


http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/22888a90b5026b23ffbb7ab0a5419bd5_zps434648bc.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9d12978a349f6bd7c89d73731901a682_zpsef81f9b2.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/94c40c8bb56df61443e558a83386dbc2_zps3efb9f1f.jpg

I didn't want to take the time and make a grill like the 1:1 has and I had some of this perforated material laying around.

[Cooper]

And this is a good lesson to just tack things in place before completely securing them. I finally made some good welds on the blade lift cylinder mounts. After done I attached to the machine only to find out the blade cylinders should be somewhat in line with the arm mounts of it puts stress on hydraulics when tilting. Guess better now than later.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/1c036d4d0684b019e3bbbe4529844ff4_zps525bd3bc.jpg


And the lower relocation of the cylinder mounts.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ff79e4310af7370a100e77193d93f991_zpsf89fb249.jpg
Oops forgot to add pic.

[9W Monighan]

You need to add spherical rod ends on the cylinder rods.
I helped a mechanic install a blade on a D11N back a few years ago. We a had a heck of a time getting the push arms aligned because it was a low hour machine at the time. The mechanic got his torch out and started cutting the spherical bearing just as the big boss came around and gave him h e ll.:cop: The next morning I was passing by and the Cat Dealer mechanic was there installing a new push arm end.

[Cooper]

Yes I have them for all the moveable cylinders.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0546ea35734232ecb52a55ed76580a87_zps62d6851c.jpg

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/accf40463db4697961c4422061ec885f_zpsd68e49ff.jpg
Started work on cab. It looks big but scale is correct. Maybe once side tanks and rops are on will look ok.

[Cooper]

Got a little more done. The metalwork is not my favorite thing to do. But I'm getting a little better at the welding.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/80eb13c1fb592298ce8cf368accf77b0_zps0954cb23.jpg

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/69446c2744b58d6f92c95d75cc79098b_zps04e108aa.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5e143d57bef827c47c90b1584ae94795_zpsa54a8799.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e7d63003b3c658a912e3504657513027_zpsd40f0d24.jpg

[titandigs]

Hey Cooper, How many Hours are you spending each day on this project?
You are flying along :jaw:, I know we can spend a whole day in the workshop at the weekend and still not make the progress you make in a couple of days during the week.:(

[JAMMER]

Great work looks great keep up the excellent job. Ed

[Fired up]

wow looking great good detail can wait to see it push so dirt I found it very tight to put all my electrics and pump in my dozer. I think that's an art all by it self
patrick

[Cooper]

Haha, I tried working once, I didn't like it. Lol,,,,, na,, I'm in a slow time of the year. And lately I've been trying to keep out in the garage as we have a Great Dane puppy that is **** in the house!!! Wife like to deal with that. Lol. Plus once the weather breaks I'll be busy and not have much time to devote to the toys.

[Cooper]

I added some hinges so it will be easier to gain access to guts.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/19e49a66417d5b0c292f21081b5859ff_zps55dc6300.jpg

And I tried to tuck them under the overhang of the back so they aren't noticeable.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/5a351edee31462f00e35a89df40e6ce1_zps47c3e3c9.jpg

[Cooper]

I know I'm not much of a welder, but I'm slowly getting better. Nothing that bondo wouldn't fix. :).
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c7dd81dc0391350905a1f115583b91bf_zps0790cf71.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/cbd93e171b1e4f2e5c9d00a06e4760b5_zpsa95f1237.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/f3723ae5f939fdb643f3ff751659b51f_zps93ba83dc.jpg

[Cooper]

And I figured I would reinforce and needed to secure the screen somehow. I just tacked some bent metal to sides. Added a lot of stability and clamped the screen in place as it's aluminum not steel.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/64f2437edf07e02a522df97d7b42ec94_zps5dc1df8a.jpg
And once smoke stacks are located a support will be tacked in top also.

[Cooper]

I'm planning on having a small computer fan in front for some cooling. I left a small louvre in the top of the cab for some air to pass.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6339d79a2700badb42d0a1eeab513287_zpsb51b6953.jpg

And again I'm not too good at the welds towards the back.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/18d5788236e68547e6f15406e55fc1f9_zps6a25484f.jpg

[Cooper]

So some idea of the access to the internals.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/296bb25b1e9485387f410533df1e0f98_zps2f21692a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2f6f96676bb0d92631980f7299948928_zpsa4ce6b94.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0a4b37151d02909fe3bb30ededaa1055_zps718a43d9.jpg

And everything in the cab area that folds up is open space. Originally I was going to use the side tank for excess hydro fluid but I'm just not confident in my welding that it would end up giving me fits.

[Trucker_Jo]

Amazing quality build, Good job so far Cooper:D

[Cooper]

Amazing quality build, Good job so far Cooper:D

Thanks,, it's one of those good from far but far from good!!! Lol! That's the welding mess. Well I'm definitely addicted to the construction equipment stuff. I'm sure more builds will be in the future. As my metal welding skills can get better. (I hope!). I guess its like drywall, the smoother the first coat the less work on the last.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/f50c1e8ecc2f13258674aa5eff0e056b_zpsa1b0389e.jpg

Well it looks like a dozer.

[doodlebug]

Looking good! Keep it up!
Cheers, Neil.

[Azonic]

Very nice!

What kind of tools/machines do you have avail for this build?

[Cooper]

Very nice!

What kind of tools/machines do you have avail for this build?

My toolbox is pretty light, a hammer and vice grips. :). I'll take some pics of the shop tools to show you.

[Lmackattack]

Looking good. Love your detail work. How heavy do you think this beast will be when done ?

[RCP57]

Great job! You are proving that with talent, you don't need a bunch of fancy equipment to turn out a fantastic model! Very inspiring!

[Cooper]

Atomic, this is most of the tools / machines I have. In a previous post I have shown the mill and lathe.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a448468f28bceb6b2a1ca96a4544cb26_zps7458409b.jpg

This is the wire welder I have and that saw that I've been using to cut the sheet metal is that Rockwell thing. It's like a scroll saw, pushing it to cut metal.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d3ec9b91c2b4d26b72241eed0a7e142e_zpsc53e1c7f.jpg

Drill press (rarely used) the lathe and mill.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/09cee1423eb219f918d4708a5e38d95a_zpse2e04125.jpg

And this is the brake, shear, roller unit I recently purchased. Was originally going to get a 12" one but Xmas gift card helped with the larger more $ version.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c7771cd8f06e6cf78057c54401e831e0_zps2cadc1cc.jpg

[Cooper]

Oops, azonic, spell checker auto interfered. :) not atomic.

[RCP57]

How do you like the 3 in 1 machine? I have been looking at a big one but I am a little apprehensive to spend 2k on a machine that does everything but nothing well. I guess I am most interested in knowing how well the shear works?

Reg

[Cooper]

Looking good. Love your detail work. How heavy do you think this beast will be when done ?

I'm curious about that too, I'll try and put everything that I have so far on the scale and get an idea.

And I know it looks like I'm a big fan of grizzly tools, not really as they are just rebranded from the original. But the muncy grizzly store and warehouse is basically in my backyard. So shipping is not an issue as that usually ends up less expensive that other models. There stuff is good however and I'm happy with my purchases. (Once I figure out how to use them. !!)

[Cooper]

How do you like the 3 in 1 machine? I have been looking at a big one but I am a little apprehensive to spend 2k on a machine that does everything but nothing well. I guess I am most interested in knowing how well the shear works?

Reg
The shear could use a little refinement, on full with pieces a couple quick jerks on the Handel shears a pretty clean edge. But I've only cut 22 guage steel. One piece of aluminum and it felt like butter. Took me a couple hours to adjust everything but then again I didn't know what I was doing. I don't have any other experience to compare to but for what I've done so far I think its a quality piece.

[RCP57]

Good to know, thanks. Is that a 30"?

[tsikows]

hey cooper i love your build. im looking into starting my own but i am looking to do a cat 345d. was wondering if i could get some insight from you?

[Cooper]

hey cooper i love your build. im looking into starting my own but i am looking to do a cat 345d. was wondering if i could get some insight from you?
Appreciate your request but my lack of experience might not be the best of opinions. This is my first build involving any type of production of equipment.

[Cooper]

I started building the hydro parts. I'm making the pistons out of aluminum, it doesn't have any contact anywhere. Do you guys think it would be better to use brass, as I don't want to contaminate the oil, or is that the case when aluminum has contact with something? I'm using brass for the cylinder and stainless for shafts. Honed and polished. The piston has two o-rings , more for guides, and one x-ring for the seal. And the rod seal will consist of a actual seal with o-ring for a wiper, or x-ring.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/2c9611a414defbcea08191add1de0e68_zps47cc2713.jpg

[Lil Giants]

You look like you're on the right track... my Vario cyls use a aluminum piston too & the oil stays relatively clean for 50+ hrs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v150/protrker/Jan%2014/004_zps67a45c14.jpg

[JAMMER]

Very nice work on the cylinders. You have a Very nice shop. I see you are coming along very nicely on the dozer great job. Ed

[Cooper]

Thanks guys, anyone have some pics easily accessible of the rod seal end? I'm working on that today, had to make a internal grooving bit. I assume you want the rod hole to be as tight as possible? Of course some clearance. I have x-ring seals, o-ring seals and actual 1/4" seals. The 1/4" seals have an id of 1/4 and a od of 1/2". No way am I getting that seal into a 1/4" hole for an internal groove. I'm thinking of making a wider portion of the cylinder with basically a washer, with a standoff for the inlet port. So the piston doesn't top out past the inlet port. Then a plug cap bolted on. That way I could use the better seal and just push it in. The plug cap would also get a wiper and oring on the outside for like I guess a gland seal? Not sure if that is right. All sounds complicated but is pretty simple and will be easiest to install.

[Lmackattack]

Aluminum for pistons are fine as long as you can keep it from making contact with the tube.

I built race car dampers for 10 years and the dampers were made with aluminum or steel tubes with aluminum pistons.

Some pistons had just 2 grooves cut for a slide ring and an o ring. That's all that was needed to keep fluid from snaking past.

The cover for the rod to exit thru can consist a few ways. Use of a single x style oring can be used with limited seapage past the rod, most dampers i built had a backing oring with step seals and dust ring. Thesis more complex but less dirt can get in...

If you have any questions I will gladly help..

[Cooper]

This is the little internal grooving tool I had to make. It cuts brass very clean and easy. It's small enough to squeez into a .30" hole.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/09112855fe67fd13edc18bc39adf6684_zpsc22716a6.jpg

[Cooper]

Ok this is what I've come up with.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ba4c7f9cf94b0e4796b151173efbffc9_zpsbdce6c34.jpg

Originally I wanted to use these seals, little more robust, a little better sealing. But,,,,, the od is just slightly larger than the id of my tube. And they are just too big to be squeezing into a 1/4" shaft hole. (Id is .25, od is 1/2") things got more complex and seeing what others use I'm going to go with the o-rings and one x-ring for the seal.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/71b5dbbd83da9123c3a3ccfa5c84f99e_zpsf4375432.jpg

The tube is necked down just so I have more allowance for bolt pattern for the cap. Piston has three rings, bolted with m4 screw. The rod seals are internal but the three are what go inside. Trying to have the last oring close to end to act as much as a dust seal/wiper.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/49a1d09c3a3b379fc1023b94f7d2ebcc_zps984639f5.jpg

This is cylinder top. This is just a mock (f-up) up of what will be made. The shaft hole is too large, I'm using 1/4" shaft and making the passage hole .30. So a couple hundredths of clearance. Does this look, sound, seam, like it will work? The rings will be loaded, squeezed into the groves when shaft is installed making the right seal. I don't know what to expect as I'm not familiar with these pressures or anything whatsoever with hydraulics. I did test one on a blind hole with some coolant and about standing on it when seal let loose and shot coolant to ceiling. I'm thinking that should be good for 100-150 psi? It's a dozer so I don't think I need the pressure like an excavator. What bar/psi am I among for ?

[Cooper]

Oh and the end of the cylinder with bolt pattern will be drilled and tapped first before being silver soldered to shaft. Little easier to work on a 1/2" piece rather than an 8" piece vertically to drill.

[ihbuilder]

.05" is too much IMO . If going .25 ram stay like .2525"-.255" max .I run .0025" on mine. and still feels sloppy .

[Cooper]

Ok thanks, pretty close tolerance then. One more question, I know I said 1/4 shafts for the hydraulics but after looking at it and holding it in position in model the 3/8 shafts look better. I can't really find specs for cylinders to compare 1:1 scale. I know I already made pistons and they could be used or new ones made. They are easy. Is it better to have more space in the cylinder or less? I would think less as less oil would be need for lower volume. ??? Love this forum and thanks for the help as this is new for me. I did purchase a 5 valve block and pump from premacon. Don't know how to make one of them. But once I get one then I can redneck reverse engineer it !!lol!,

[ihbuilder]

.3125" would look more prototypical but the .25" will work . what is your bore ? .375" may be to big . In theory , your only picking up the weight of the blade so your not going to need much volume .

here's a lil calculator I pulled off the net . type in your bore , PSI , and rod dia and that will give you what your cylinder can do for given amount of pressure .
http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

[Cooper]

.3125" would look more prototypical but the .25" will work . what is your bore ? .375" may be to big . In theory , your only picking up the weight of the blade so your not going to need much volume .

here's a lil calculator I pulled off the net . type in your bore , PSI , and rod dia and that will give you what your cylinder can do for given amount of pressure .
http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htm

Thanks, that works out well.

[Cooper]

Here is a small portion of the machining work that goes into one part.
Stock cutoff
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/93351044dea5ae5dcf1d838c7710d10d_zps9adb380b.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/966b50438f94b3bbc3f71223068c3cdf_zps93f3db6e.jpg
Lathe work with a four jaw chuck. Making the rotation shaft and a groove for a set screw as a retainer mechanism.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4d49af9f29b8391cb6a3cfabd51e662e_zps17527b89.jpg
Cutting out the way for hydraulic cylinder and pivot pins. To be honest and probably reflective of a lot of scratch builds this piece was tossed. As once the pin holes were drilled I realized they were going to be too close and no clearance for pivoting of the cylinder. So back to cut, lathe, groove,,,,,

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/4fbc2f1b5e3db9d7db2006430bcd5552_zpsaf18a04e.jpg
Cutting the pivot blocks

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/025283c28746674ddf4b3ec163bb1e55_zps502ddd38.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/553a8aec3db35c35337fa1fecbebfb04_zps33603f3b.jpg
Cutting the angle on bottom

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/56c4364043ea32f2e099d2e7ec01bc9c_zps12cf2761.jpg
Redneck cad drawling.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/83b952b748d728a98db201b46323e6a1_zpsa7348e8d.jpg
Center drilling pilot hole and referencing hole locations

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/06964365b39278eb73b841c90d25edd6_zpsbc338950.jpg
Clearance drilling for 2-56 bolt

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/83113d9dc76872385e34d72c993d3954_zps5abc882b.jpg
Tap drilling for 2-56 bolt. I know most drill smaller through hole first but I didn't want the bit to stray. On such a small drill bit a deep hole can drift off course more easily, so that is why I drilled the clearance hole first.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/029d3216ed8e64dcd3de92912d2e7f83_zps9f3c795d.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/8eda946e5d8c06f9bdecb33cead6f1b6_zps53312a1e.jpg
Using the slitting saw to part off the pivot carrier.

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e8fe2e699e047e2e2f589b8603e3af48_zps362996c4.jpg
Cleaning up sharp edges and holes

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/bd53c22b18cabde43fb9a9197005183f_zpsb5f1e634.jpg
Tapping 2-56 holes

And finally the unprinted part
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6e7355c1c614652b9242dcf9b43a621b_zps9348cc9b.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a92fa3759adca642db5325ed1e8b0191_zpse676654a.jpg

I know someone wanted to see some of the process so,, all that and double it :)

[Lil Giants]

Yeah, thanx Cooper for taking the time to take the pics & post them up... I know how time consuming that in itself can be. ;) How much time clocked to make those two parts?

I made a simple clevis hitch the other day from a block of aluminum... I really got focused at what I was doing & did it all the milling & drilling in one sitting, I'm embarrassed to say how many hrs it took... maybe a mill of your size with its rigidity & digital readouts would have cut the time in half - especially with the use of a slitting saw.

I never heard of a slitting saw or knew of its use in a mill till you mentioned it a few pgs back, what a great tool accessory! I've always used a hacksaw & as hard as I try, never do I even get it unnoticeably crooked. :(

What spd do you run it at? What's the thickness of that particular blade? And is it specific for cutting aluminum?

99% of the holes I drill/tap are 3mm and I have always drilled once with 2.5mm bit b/c bit wonder for me is indeed a problem to go bigger than 1st hole, especially with aluminum.

Also, the blade in your chop saw, what is that? Does it cut the aluminum bar perpendicular with 99.9% accuracy?

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/98167747482e4aaa21fa13cb805f2ee9_zps2e1495fe.jpg

Some pics of the hydra cylinders.

Lil giants , I'll get some info and give ya some answers later tonight.

[Cooper]

Level blade, not worrying about blade carry or dump as it is short amount of travel but it was tested for range of motion and all worked out.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/22e4bdef2c09e8d401d0263144569eb6_zps35660753.jpg

Three inches of blade lift from level

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/c3f9ff6d36d3e426e4e2e50274c7a583_zpse532bf94.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0a17f724c8e30560933d4c24236d9742_zpsf0295048.jpg

Blade tilt left and right. I m hoping that I can possibly use a aircraft radio mix that will allow limited range of tilt in relation to lift of blade. I think it is possible as it's pretty far tilt from max to max I between cylinders and presses limits of components.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/a17ad418e6d65efaf9ad1d80a423f225_zps7a16126e.jpg

And two inches of digging depth. 1:1 depth is 30" so that's close, (I think)?

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6ed12f4fac781980b30a2d5d6eed432d_zpscbdbb7d8.jpg

[Cooper]

Uhh, I just realized they are valves and not the servos that actuate the cylinders. I guess if I had limit sensors it's possible but I'm not going that far. I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on how much I tilt and not let Dennis the menus play with it. :).

[Cooper]

Yeah, thanx Cooper for taking the time to take the pics & post them up... I know how time consuming that in itself can be. ;) How much time clocked to make those two parts?

I made a simple clevis hitch the other day from a block of aluminum... I really got focused at what I was doing & did it all the milling & drilling in one sitting, I'm embarrassed to say how many hrs it took... maybe a mill of your size with its rigidity & digital readouts would have cut the time in half - especially with the use of a slitting saw.

I never heard of a slitting saw or knew of its use in a mill till you mentioned it a few pgs back, what a great tool accessory! I've always used a hacksaw & as hard as I try, never do I even get it unnoticeably crooked. :(

What spd do you run it at? What's the thickness of that particular blade? And is it specific for cutting aluminum?

99% of the holes I drill/tap are 3mm and I have always drilled once with 2.5mm bit b/c bit wonder for me is indeed a problem to go bigger than 1st hole, especially with aluminum.

Also, the blade in your chop saw, what is that? Does it cut the aluminum bar perpendicular with 99.9% accuracy?

Lol, time? Uhhhh,, yea half hour,,,, well all said and done I would think I had about 3hours in them. It wasn't all at once so hard to tell and the second part was about 2/3 less time than the first as I knew what I was doing for the second one.

The slitting saw, my experience is that are somewhat of a mystery to some. I've only used on aluminum. Lots of coolant and definitely not milling speeds. Usually slower speed and slow feed. Lots of coolant. I like to use it for parts as I can make one big part and then have two. Some of those small parts are hard to work. That blade I think was .063? 1/16.

The chop saw is as accurate as the chop table there. The blade is for metal, cuts pretty good. Most metal saws are slow. Using a chop saw is more for abrasive cutting. But you can't abrasive cut alum. Loud dirty mean machine but cuts aluminum stock like butter. Doesn't leave a finish cut but cuts pretty square. Like I said it will cut as square as you can adjust the clamp table to blade. Plan on spending about $80-100 on a blade if you want it to cut. Any carbide tipped circular saw blade will cut aluminum. Trick is in the heat. If it heats up too fast too much it will immediately dull. A dull blade will burn up the saw. Not saying to cut alum with your circular saw but just putting in perspective,,, and this blade is metal specific.

[Cooper]

Oh and I broke down and ordered pump, valve block and some fittings from premacon. Was hoping to make my own but first time thing, I need to have one in hand and understand how it works. Pricey little package coming from overseas. Kinda a bitter sweet little box in the mail.

[Kingcam2]

Looking good so far Cooper, Can't wait to see some more photo of what you have been working on.

[Cooper]

Hi Cooper,

Can I please ask you to put one more photo of your puppy? I saw it once at your workshop photo...but it always at corner not very clear. Thank you.

Regards,
Kevin
You wanted some doggie pics,, don't let my wife hear that,, she will flood your email!!!! Lol,, the toys are my domain and the dogs are hers. :)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/231c767417e690082d9babd49c2e9089_zps8bfa2466.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b14a6044a39adda779541da88756b7e9_zpsab86acc5.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/9f72c8ac15ddf008ed321efdde990be3_zps8cc98459.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d6cf8addba1c87df7557c92495a26277_zps376a87fc.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b76d0aa7fd0e7e3da7fde02a88b16895_zpsafccb2ee.jpg

The Irish wolfhound is almost 4 years, the Great Dane is one year old. And he is a teenager in the worst ways!!!!

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0acfd3db07e0d1500c170ac39526da16_zpsb87e6969.jpg

That's me, Ira and my boy that is no longer with us, Cooper. My name is R.W. Actually, and Cooper was the Danes name. :)

[Espeefan]

Cooper, thanks for sharing all the photos and information of the machining process! Sometimes I think I can learn way more just by seeing how all of you skilled machinists make the parts that you do. It might make me feel like the things I make are kindergarten projects, but hey, I'm okay with that. Seeing your work can give me something to shoot for. Great job on your D11. The pictures of your dogs are very sharp images. Someone must have some good photography skills too, an awesome camera, and some well behaved dogs!

[Cooper]

I'll try and include some more machining processes if ya want. I think I have these hydraulic seals figured out. Trying to figure the tolerances for the x rings so they are compressed some but not too much was a bit of trial n error. This is the lift cylinders done. I still have to install a set screw for the retaining pin on the side of machine. I think I'll do it on the inside so it wouldn't be noticeable.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/e15b8e9708187f7c54fdb39249fcd200_zps9e424afa.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/3a638521cb8a9b4aee719cbd998aa408_zps24049ba0.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/89f6b365f75f6d91fc5f29715707af7b_zps2dc53982.jpg

The lift cylinders and the blade dump cylinders (tilt I guess)

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/73134b96c94a539f11bed6e324423239_zpsdad48829.jpg
And some extra parts I guess :). Had some learning curves. Don't mink with the aluminum but brass starts to get expensive. Not to mention the pile of chips :)

[Cooper]

Made the air intakes.
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/595dc34c160736da07d92789c12a83dd_zpsb252c306.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/af146efe22f888184e9608a840873e21_zpsc4d3995a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/85c8862c3fcfd102e66453cbd06b4fbe_zpsb1032b4e.jpg
Had to throw this one in, every time the mill/lathe stops a cat jumps in my lap!! Tried to shop-vac up his tail but that only worked for a couple days :)
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/361b4d10bd627ec0f06d8dcae1c91a28_zpsfaa45d5a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/6cb7d2cb36db129699accc2d793d081d_zps62976ad7.jpg
And made some of the hand rail and hand holds.

[ricm]

great work - looking forward to the finished item!

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/649abac5a64d3786a4c3a279e625cd66_zps91c23f45.jpg

Got some more parts, the hydraulic pump, valves, and fittings from premacon. I usually don't get bothered with small imperfections but the valve block being in excess of $400 I would expect something better. The aluminum parts that you attach the servo arm to, it looks like they installed four of them and then removed them with a blunt screwdriver. On the undersides of four, they are bent, nicked just torn up somehow. And one has plane holes in it. They were not taped like the other ones. The bottom of the block has some industrial glue or goo stuck to it. I know that these are probably minor imperfections but, damm for that kind of bean I expect better. All but one valve turns well, one returns to its initial position a bit. I suspect whatever seal is in there may not be seated or bent some how. I was planning on dissecting it anyway to see how it works. And in my order I ordered all 4mm fittings but recieved the two 1/8zoll fittings for 6mm. ??? I did read somewhere that they were good and take care of ya, if you need something email them and tell them what you are planning and they will tell you what you need. I did do that several months ago and my response was m5 fittings with 4mm tube. After I wrote a detailed plan of how many cylinders, functions, ect I was planning to find out how many fittings I would need. As the valve block takes several and wasn't sure what all fit with what. Oh well alls good, as I got what I got and placed another order for the 4mm fittings. I guess I was just lacking on product verses high price. But from what I read their product do do its job. Just thought I would share, all is good and now I can start to give the d11 a heartbeat!!

[Lil Giants]

5 valves in a dozer? :confused:

That valve is steel, it's the same design as the aluminum bodied ones I get, though I don't know if it's the same guy making them in steel. Apparently only the steel valves can be had through Premacon...

I've never had a valve show up in the condition you described, Fumotec uses the same hyds (Jung pump & Meinhart aluminum valves) as Premacon... they could be really busy & getting sloppy, I'd be livid as I don't have 2mm tap for those holes not done... I would send a mail to tell them so. ;)

The two 6mm fittings (4mm id hose) screw into output side of the pump & into input side of valve. Do you have two more larger fittings for a 6mm id hose to connect tank to pump? (I think that's the size, it's definitely larger than the output)

Are those the servos Premacon sent with the order or you picked on your own?

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/10a2f3139921509aa71f52472c9b7fd8_zps92e799d2.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ce21d124a788b0e24f225496494d2ab9_zpse7cf665c.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/af2ef8e8f178f884c782d1bc50bee07b_zps162bd855.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d96d85c40be1350f022b34af4806099f_zpsa75de335.jpg
The last pic is the left one is taped, right one (in best shape of all) is not taped. It's really no big deal, I was just disappointed in appearance for how much I paid. I decided to go with these for reasons of steel, and from others they make the best stuff. As long as they work I'll be happy. It was one of those things I thought I would share, maybe I'm being too critical??

The servos were not from them, cheep hobbyking from home pile of stuff, just was checking size. I thought I already have some micro servos.

Oh and yea five valve dozer. Independent blade lift valves, allowing left/right tilt. (2) Dump/carry tilt for the blade valve (3). Ripper raise (4), ripper tilt (5). Like I have said before, that should make a first build radio programming easy!! Lol!! Planning on using a 9ch radio.

And yes I had planned on larger diameter for tank to pump and larger size back to tank. Just wasn't using planning on using that hose and their fittings.

[Lil Giants]

Your blade lateral tilt comes from the smaller cyls on the ends of the blade. Pair your lift cyls with one valve. ;)

Which radio you intending to use?

Using F mode, F1 could have your tilt cyls (side of blade cyls) working opposite each other in one mix for maxium lateral tilt, then in F2 they could be cycling same direction to carry or dump.

I've never tried such programming myself, but I think it should be possible.

I see that Premacon is using a much smaller servo with these steel valves, that must be the advantage to steel - a rotary valve turns easier with high pressure. :thinking:

They must have held that piece with pliers while they tapped it?

[Cooper]

Didn't know that about the lateral tilt cylinders. Thank you. I will still need the fifth valve for the independent tilt cylinders,? Right? If I'm following you. The mixing shouldn't be a problem as I'm fairly familiar with setting up mixing. Not sure about assigning a slave to all functions for the pump to only run when needed. But I'm sure I'll figure it out when time comes. Like when it's all together and then you can't figure something out so you tear it apart to put it back together different just to realize it was a simple switch or program that would have solved it!! Keep ya familiar with how to put something together even though you built it! Lol!! Murphy's law or just looking at a T-bone steak by sticking you head up the bulls a$$ !! Lol. I'm using a turnigy tx9 radio, have spectrum 6i also but I'm pretty impressed with the tx9 (for the price)

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/0b9471abddc96fb41782864e94d66b44_zps6feace70.jpg

Got my knife business under way.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/464e906df11e8dc113d415e2ef2249eb_zps1a90448e.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/ada1f521fceb17b77c53f3243c75a6e2_zps06e617cd.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/b8952c670b0b7efba6885509bebad61b_zps6141c358.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/bcd7e71dbc65685d07bf1fe043a911c5_zps8fc0e629.jpg
Working on the ripper. Once this is done I'll have to finish up the hydraulic cylinders for it and then I'll be able to bring her alive.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/dccc6870e6d208cfa3e31f051cc3c06e_zps0b005ce5.jpg
I have to hone and polish tubes and shafts. Then I'm going to solder up the fittings to prevent as many leaks as possible. After mocking up several times. :)

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/d1f6be2aab848fc21065eecdc7cf9cf2_zpsf4a358b7.jpg
Made some sort mock transmission plate for the back. It also is the other side of the pin holes for the tilt cylinders. The outer pin holes are part of the frame so whatever forces the ripper has I'm sure the tracks will just spin and not worry about bending anything. I tried to make this more functional and durable than other aspects. There will be a row of mock bolts to be added.

[Cooper]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q750/cooperford/7ee6d3f59479645f40594f8e74f14015_zpsae0a21a8.jpg

Under the front hood, a fan that will have some of the sabertooth esc directly bolted to it. That way the esc will have plenty of cooling (I think). Then the motors/ batteries / electronics.